Builders Tips

Autumn Home Checklist by FMB

2011-09-15T19:03:00.003+01:00

As the summer draws to a close and the evenings get shorter this is the ideal time to do some seasonal jobs in the garden and around the house.

It’s a good idea to start at the top and work your way down when assessing what jobs need to be done. Start off by looking at the roof, are there any loose tiles? Brian Berry, Director of External Affairs at the Federation of Master Builders (FMB), the UK’s largest trade association in building says “You may be able to identify roofing problems from the ground but it is not necessarily a good idea to climb a ladder for a closer inspection or try and rectify the problem yourself. When work at height is involved it is always best to get the specialists in so you can avoid injury. Remember doing maintenance and improvement work yourself can actually be a false economy anyway as work which is completed to a poor standard can actually reduce the value of your home.”

Next, have a look at the guttering for damage and check for any sign of moss or algae which is a sign that water is leaking from the guttering. Clear away any blockages, leaves and debris that may have accumulated in the guttering. A simple test to check your guttering is working is to pour a jug of water down and make sure there are no blockages but be careful as you will have to use a ladder to do this. Replace damaged or rusted cast-iron guttering with a modern alternative.

Check your paintwork for signs of cracking, as rain and frost can get into the wood work and cause rot. Also check that windows and doors fit properly and that no drafts can get through. Draft proofing your home could save you around £80 a year according to the Energy Saving Trust. As well as wood work on windowsills and door frames you should also have a look at the exterior paint work – if your home is painted. Repainting the exterior may be a job for a builder as it might require scaffolding and it’s important to get a good finish.

Check paths and patios for any damage or algae. You can buy various products at a local garden centre to remove algae or moss. Using a pressure washer can also clear dirt from a patio but be careful that you do not do this when the weather starts to turn frosty, as the patio could ice over and cause an accident. You should also be careful not to have stagnant water sitting on the patio as this is a main cause of algae and moss.

After your last BBQ of the summer make sure you give the BBQ and garden furniture a good clean and store it away from the harsh weather in a shed or garage.

As the evenings begin to get darker make sure you have a welcoming light to guide you to your front door. If you don’t already have any external light ask a local electrician to fit one for you. If you already have one make sure it is in good working order.

You probably haven’t been using your boiler very much over the warmer summer months but no doubt you will need to start using it again soon, so now is the perfect time to get your boiler serviced. You should have your boiler serviced once a year to ensure it is working efficiently and that it is not dangerous. If you have a gas boiler it should only be serviced by a qualified engineer who is registered with the Gas Safe Register.

You can probably do most of these seasonal jobs yourself but if you do need help make sure you always carefully choose your builder.

Below are the FMB’s tips for choosing a builder:

1. Be specific and prepare a detailed brief. Be as clear as you can about what you want, as this can make a huge difference to quotes.

2. Ask friends, family and neighbours if they can recommend a builder they have recently used. Alternatively check the find a builder website (www.fmb.org.uk/findabuilder). And don’t be afraid to ask for references or to speak to previous clients.

3. Get at least three quotes. When you are ready to decide, don’t just go with the cheapest, consider communication and quality too.

4. Use a contract. You can download free contracts on the FMB website (http://www.fmb.org.uk/find-a-builder/free-contracts/).

5. Never pay the full cost of the project up front. Agree a payment plan. Using a credit card to pay can offer you more protection

Source: FMB

How to Choose the Right Shower

2011-08-30T17:45:00.002+01:00

Hot water for showering is provided either by a stored hot water system or by an instantaneous heater of some description that heats the water on demand.

ELECTRIC SHOWERS

Electric showers are the easiest showers to install in terms of compatibility with existing water heating systems and locations throughout the home. They draw water direct from the mains water supply and heat it as it is used for showering. It can be used in most domestic showering applications e.g. over the bath, shower cubicles, shower rooms etc.

ADVANTAGES:

Provides a shower that is independent of the main hot water heating system in the house, thus reducing the risk associated with breakdowns.
Can be installed in almost any home throughout the UK new & old.
Instantaneous shower; it can be used at any time of the day.

DISADVANTAGES:

Requires electrical wiring from the shower unit to the main fuse box.
Flow rate tends to be lower than showers that use the homes main water heating system, and it will vary between summer when the incoming water is warm, and the winter when the flow rate will reduce because the incoming water is significantly colder..
Cost wise, the installation costs may be higher than showers that use the homes main water heating system due to the need for plumbing and electrical work.

Higher kilowatt output showers have gone a long to help overcome some of the disadvantages of poor flow; (10 kilowatt showers are the equivalent of over 3 emersion heaters or 10 x 1 kilowatt bars on an electric fire) but to some an electric appliance fitted in the bathroom is perceived as a safety risk. This is not the case, providing it is properly installed, by a trained professional who knows what he is doing. Electrical appliances are often associated with water for example the kettle, washing machine or the electric cooker, which needs frequent washing.

MAINS PRESSURE SHOWERS

Showers that are fed from a domestic heating system that feeds hot water to the taps instantaneously on demand.

Combination boilers have become increasingly popular over the last 10-15 years as the number of one and two person homes as increased dramatically.

The combination boiler takes the practicality of an instantaneous 'Multipoint' water heater and combines it with a traditional boiler, hence the name 'combination' boiler. The great advantage is that you only use the water that you need.

You can establish whether you have an instantaneous boiler by the lack of any storage water cylinders. A simple test is to turn the central heating off, so that the boiler is not running; then turn a hot water tap on, the boiler should fire to supply water to the tap.

A combination boiler will switch all its heat output to water heating when demanded. This means that you will have a boiler capable of heating your whole house feeding your mixer shower.

Therefore if you have this type of water heating system you will need a shower that blends or mixes the hot and cold water to a safe showering temperature that can be maintained. Mixer showers that are compatible with instantaneous boilers will have a higher flow rate than electric showers, and are generally easier to install because there are no electrical connections.

ADVANTAGES:

High flow rates, similar to a powered shower because these showers are mains fed and designed for pressurised water systems.
Easy to install, no problems with system design, location or compatibility with your existing water system, providing you have an instantaneous boiler that has been installed correctly.
Instantaneous shower only heats the water when you need it.

DISADVANTAGES:

If your boiler breaks down you have no hot water for your taps or showering.
Combination boilers start to heat water when a tap or shower is turned on. The length of pipe from the boiler to the shower determines the time taken for hot water to reach the shower, and it is often the case that large volumes of water need to be drawn off, before water of the correct temperature is achieved, this can be costly and frustrating. Good system design and installation helps to overcome this problem in most cases.

GRAVITY FED MIXER SHOWERS

Showers that are fed from a stored hot water system, that can only feed hot water to the taps if the water has been pre heated in the cylinder.

Imagine a set of taps with a temporary, rubber, hand-shower attachment. The idea is very simple, you pre heat the water in your cylinder then turn the hot and cold taps to blend the water to achieve a comfortable showering or rinsing temperature. Mixer showers work on the same principal they are easy to install as they do not need any electrical connections, and work by blending hot and cold water together. They are ideal if you have an abundant supply of stored hot water.

When selecting a mixer shower for use on a gravity system, the most important thing to consider is the flow rate that is achievable from the shower rose. Unless you have water pressure of at least 0.5 bar, which is equivalent to a gap of five meters between the bottom of the cold water storage tank and the shower rose you will need to select a 'Low Pressure' shower valve, capable of supplying a satisfactory shower at water pressures as low as 0.1 bar, (which is approximately one meter difference).

You will be able to get a rough idea simply by observing the flow rate of water that you receive from the bath taps. Remember that you will be mixing hot and cold water but if it appears slow then the chances are that the showers performance will be disappointing.

The solution is to fit a shower pump that pushes the water to your shower mixer thus creating an invigorating powerful showering experience.

If you opt for the pumped solution you must ensure that you have plenty of hot water storage capacity, for pumped showers can deliver anything between 11 - 25 Litres of blended water per minute, and this will drain the average sized cylinder very quickly.

You will have an idea of the amount of hot water that you have available by looking at the physical size of your cylinder and monitoring your everyday usage. For example the depth of hot water that you are able to achieve when running a bath before the hot water runs out. If you do not have large volumes of stored water, do not use a pump unless you alter the system to cope with it. Alternatively fit an electric shower.

Source: www.plumbingpages.com

Laying a Patio - 5 Easy Steps

2011-08-08T18:53:00.004+01:00

Decided an outdoor dining area is your next project? Laying a patio in your garden will create a smart look that's easy to care for - but you’ll need some muscle to get the job done.

WHAT YOU NEED?

spade
wheelbarrow
wooden pegs
string
hardcore
spirit level
levelling board or vibrating plate
paving slabs
building sand and cement, or ready-made mortar mix
lump hammer
pointing trowel

1. Mark out the position of your patio using pegs and strings. It’s easiest to adjust the size of the patio so that you don’t have to cut any of the slabs. Dig out to a depth of 15cm unless your patio is against the house in which case you’ll need to go an extra 15cm below the level of the damp-proof course.

2. Lay a 10cm layer of hardcore using wooden pegs as a depth marker. If your patio is against your house it will need to be angled slightly so that water runs away from the building. Use the pegs and a spirit level to guide you in creating this slight slope. Compact the hardcore using a board or a vibrating plate.

3. Lay the slabs down to check you’re happy with the arrangement. Start from the house or a wall or fence if there is one.

4. Make a mortar mix from five parts building sand to one part cement; or use ready-made mortar mix and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Create a bed of mortar 5 to 8cm deep and lay slabs on it; leaving 1cm gaps in between for grouting. Tap down the slabs with a lump hammer. Check with a spirit level as you go to ensure the slabs are level or maintaining the fall away from the house. Leave the mortar to set for at least 24 hours or a few days.

5. Fill in the spaces between the slabs with a mix of three parts building sand to one part cement (or your ready-made mix) using a pointing trowel. If you get any of the mix on the slabs; remove it. Allow to dry for a few days.

Source: www.channel4.com

Protect your home from fire

2011-07-27T18:50:00.005+01:00

Every home contains potential sources of fire – such as cookers, electrical equipment or candles – so it makes sense to be fire aware, to fit smoke alarms and to keep fire-fighting equipment to hand.

SMOKE ALARMS

Fumes produced by smouldering fire can kill you without you even waking up. This is where smoke alarms offer vital protection, giving early warning of trouble. They are very reasonably priced, but remember to check that your device carries the British Standard kitemark.

The more alarms you have around your home, the safer you will be. If you live on one level, fit a smoke alarm in the hallway between the living and sleeping areas, ideally on the ceiling, at least 300mm away from a wall or light fitting. On a wall the alarm must be 150mm–300mm below the ceiling. It is pointless installing an alarm in a kitchen or bathroom, as steam will set it off. If your house has more than one storey, fit one alarm at the bottom of the staircase and an alarm on each landing. There are two types of smoke alarm:

1. An ionisation alarm is very sensitive to particles of smoke from a fast raging fire.

2. Photoelectric alarms are good for detecting the large quantities of smoke given off by smouldering fires.

Most of the smoke alarms are battery powered, so it’s important to check the batteries regularly. Better still, choose an alarm with a 10- year lithium battery. You can also buy mains-powered smoke alarms that are wired permanently to the electricity supply. When installing an
alarm always read the instructions thoroughly.

FIRE EXTINGUISHERS

Fire extinguishers over 1kg should comply with either the new European Standard BS EN3 or the old BS 5423. To meet the new standard, extinguishers have all-red bodies with a band of colour to indicate the extinguishers contents. You should make yourself aware of the different colours used for the different types of fire.

Water extinguishers (red body) - Ideal for freely burning materials, such as paper, cloth and wood. Some contain water plus a special fire inhibitor that prevents materials burning. These
extinguishers are not suitable for flammable liquids or fires involving electrical appliances.

Foam extinguishers (red body with yellow band) - Multi-purpose foam extinguishers are suitable for fires involving freely burning materials such as paper, cloth and wood, plus most flammable liquids.

Powder extinguishers (red body with blue band) - Suitable for flammable liquids and electrical apparatus and most freely burning materials. But remember that powder smothers rather than cools the flames, so a fire may re-ignite.

Carbon dioxide extinguishers (red body with black band) - For fires involving flammable liquids or electrical equipment like computers, photocopiers or generators. Not to be used in confined spaces where fumes could be inhaled.

FIRE BLANKETS

A fire blanket is the simplest and safest way to extinguish a cooking-oil fire. Turn off the heat source, hold the blanket so that your hands are protected behind it, then drape it over the pan.
Flames will be smothered immediately, but you mustn’t remove the blanket for at least 30 minutes to allow the heat to decrease. Never pick up a blazing pan and run outside with it; flames blowing back could make you drop the pan and you could get burned.

Most modern fire blankets are made of woven glass; some are coated to ensure oils and fats can’t penetrate. If someone’s clothes are on fire, wrap a fire blanket around them to smother the flames.

FIRE LADDER

For peace of mind, consider keeping compact escape ladders in your upstairs bedrooms. These
can be stored in a roll that fits under the average bed. Escape ladders are lightweight but strong, flame-resistant, and easy to use.

Source: www.diy.com

Want to sell your home? Prepare it!

2011-07-21T17:15:00.004+01:00

If you’re getting ready to move out or let prospective home buyers snoop through your home, you should check and fix, if necessary, the following common problem areas. These are the items that are mainly found by home inspectors and cause the most issues with repair requests. Getting them done now will save you money and stress later.

INDOOR REPAIRS

Repair leaky faucets, sinks, dishwashers.
If you see any sign of wall mildew or dampness, check for broken pipes inside the walls.
Replace rusted, leaky garbage disposals.
Replace significantly cracked floor tiles.
Tack down loose carpeting or restretch and reattach wall-to-wall carpets.
Repair holes in walls (from doorknobs) and other damage.
Repair split door jams.
Test and ensure that all indoor and outdoor light fixtures and wall outlets work properly.
Remove or bring to code any rigged garage, workshop, attic or basement wiring.
Remove soap scum, mildew and stains from bathrooms and kitchens.
Empty and clean all cabinets.

FIREPLACES

Check fireplace gas valves and dampers to ensure proper operation.
Repair cracks to fire box and outside chimney.
Install chimney-top spark arrester.

EXTERIOR REPAIRS

Repair loose railings, steps and outdoor carpeting.
Bring exterior lighting to code or remove.
Replace cracked window panes and window caulking.
Replace torn screens.
Make sure all windows open and close properly and smoothly.
Repair wobbly fencing and replace rotting wood.
Repair sticky gates and broken latches.
Replace broken sprinkler heads and repair leaks.
Check that garage doors hang properly and that door openers work.
Install missing gutters and downspouts.
Clean any debris and get rid of any junk.

POOLS AND SPAS

Repair pool/spa leaks and cracks, plus cracks in coping.
Check operation of heater, pump, filter and underwater lights.
Repair clogged spa jets.

LANDSCAPING

Trim back tree limbs from house or eaves.
Cut back ivy and other vegetation from wood-paneled exteriors.
Weed and edge all beds. Freshen mulch if needed.
Clean any debris.

With these minor repairs, your home should sell faster, for more money, and with less issues to be addressed between contract and closing!

Source: www.triangle-home-search.com

Inspiring Bedroom Decorating Ideas from Interior Complex

2011-07-18T19:14:00.001+01:00

Interior Design: 5 Useful Books

2011-07-12T13:30:00.006+01:00

Old House New Home by Ros Byam Shaw

How do you show off the best features of a home built for another age, while adapting it for modern living? In "Old House New Home", Ros Byam Shaw looks at the many different ways we can furnish and arrange an old building to suit today's needs, whether it is a terraced townhouse or a converted factory. Exploring properties as diverse as a small Victorian townhouse and a former country dairy, she reveals how the design of each home has been reinvented for the 21st century. This book is divided into a series of key styles: 'Period Piece', 'Urban Chic', 'Rustic', 'Recycled Spaces' and 'Country House'.

Choosing Colours by Kevin McCloud

Choosing the right colour for your home can be fraught with difficulties, and with literally thousands of shades of paint available in DIY stores the choice can be overwhelming. With this book, Kevin McCloud has taken the hard work out of home decorating by researching, selecting and combining over 750 colours into more than 60 tried-and-tested palettes that will transform your home. Stunningly well produced and printed in six colours for astonishing accuracy, each palette provides a blueprint for a decorative scheme that you can transfer to your own home confident in the knowledge that they have been sourced by a renowned authority on colour with a brilliant visual eye. Taken from a wide variety of sources - historical, regional and cultural - each palette is made up of a collection of 3-16 colour swatches and features a photograph demonstrating how the colours can be used in period or contemporary settings. With hints and tips on how best and in what situation to use each colour, the swatches are individually matched to a commercially available paint so that you effortlessly achieve each look.

Dream Homes: 100 Inspirational Interiors by Andreas von Einsiedel & Johanna Thornycroft

Everyone has an idea of their own dream home, whether it be a minimally furnished apartment overlooking a city skyline or an informal and colourful retreat in the sun. Whatever your dream, this bestselling book - now available in paperback for the first time - presents 100 inspirational interiors of all styles from around the globe, from New England to Mallorca and from Provence to South Africa. Alongside the work of many of the world's most talented interior designers are homes that have been imaginatively transformed by the vision and commitment of their owners.

The Lighting Bible: Ideas for Every Room in Your Home by Lucy Martin

How do you know what lighting to use to make the most of your interior? Should you use downlighting, uplighting, spots on the floor or the wall, or light the whole space? What light source should you choose, where should you put it and how can you control it? With more than 200 ideas for home decorators and interior designers, this practical guide shows how lighting can transform your home, increase the sense of space, provide practical lighting for working areas and bring warmth, ambience, highlights and drama. The book includes information on the technical aspects – lighting sources, strength, direction, angle, colour, control and so on – as well as on the design and look of lamp fittings, from desk lamps to chandeliers. A room-by-room directory looks at every kind of lighting requirement throughout a typical house – and the best solutions to use.

Thrifty Chic: Interior Style on a Shoestring by Liz Bauwens & Alexandra Campbell

When it comes to creating a home, "Thrifty Chic" shows you how to reuse and restore, revive and revamp, and recycle and reclaim, in order to create a stylish yet individual home without spending a small fortune. Room by room, the book explains how to give old furniture a new lease of life and how to bring a vintage charm to a room through an inspired use of fabrics and paints. There are ideas for window dressings as well as bed and table linens. There are projects for jazzing up old wooden furniture for both house and garden, and suggestions for pulling together mismatched items into cohesive schemes.The all-important finishing touches - display, china and ceramics, glassware, paintings and frames, fabrics and trims - are covered in detail, and you can learn how to create a variety of stylish accessories for your home. Get insider's tips on what to look for at antique markets and in charity shops, and how to care for and restore your bargain purchases. Whether you are creating your first home on a tight budget, or wanting to give your existing home a new look, "Thrifty Chic" contains a treasure trove of irresistible ideas.

All books are available at www.amazon.co.uk

Drywall Alternatives

2011-06-23T17:28:00.003+01:00

Daily, practically 24/7, we are encased in drywall, and we don't even know why. Here's why.

Drywall's name is appropriate. In years past, plaster and lath was the predominant building method. But the "dry-out time" for plaster was forever.

Plaster is applied on-site. A thick layer of plaster takes a long time to dry as opposed to something thin like multiple layers of paint.

Then the great idea--and it was a great idea--that plaster could be applied off-site, in a factory, and in a nice flat form and sized to four feet by eight or ten feet. In essence, that's what drywall is: factory-made plaster, shipped to the site ready-made.

But drywall has been around for decades, and it is not a perfect building material. Bump it and it breaks. Get it wet and it turns soppy. Mold loves to live in drywall's paper covering (though there are mold-resistant drywall materials now).

Drywall is a miserable stuff. Granted, the innovation of drywall and its influence from the 1950s and 1960s onward was a vast improvement over the former method of building interior walls, which was plaster and lath.

The plaster and lath method involves nailing up hundreds of parallel, horizontal slats of wood called lath and then trawling on wet plaster and squeezing it between the gaps between the lath so that it forms a bonding element called a key. After drying, the key keeps the finished plaster coat in place.

Yet drywall is still difficult to work with, and it is not entirely dry because it doe involve the application of joint compound, followed by sanding of the dried compound. Because it creates clouds of fine dust, drywall sanding is one of the most dreaded jobs of all in home remodeling.

And that is just the installation aspect of drywall. Once it has been installed, drywall is very fragile and easily damaged; it is heavy; moisture can easily ruin it; it can develop mold and mildew; and as anyone who has ever tried to hang a picture on drywall knows, it's devilishly difficult to attach items without the use of special wall anchors.

Because of these reasons, many people are interested in finding alternatives to drywall. Below I have listed some drywall alternatives. But the fact remains that drywall is still--for all its strengths and evils--the best and often only material available for closing up interior walls. These drywall alternatives listed are to be used at your own discretion: building codes vary from place to place, and usually do dictate the usage of some type of gypsum board (drywall) due to the material's ability to retard fire.

N-WALL

N-Wall comes from National Wall Systems, Inc., and is styled and advertised expressly by the company as a green and alternative material. It is 3.5" inches thick (so it is comparably sized to regular walls), made of fiberboard, framed in metal, and each panel is movable and interchangeable. N-Wall system wall panels reach from the floor to the ceiling and will accept electrical service and window punch outs.

VENEER PLASTER

Veneer plaster is like the love child of drywall and plaster. It combines the strengths of each of those two materials. With regular lath and plaster construction, a monolithic (i.e., one solid layer) of plaster is applied to the wood lath strips. One problem with this is that this thick coat of plaster takes a long time to dry out. But with veneer plaster, half-inch gypsum drywall is applied to the studs and then a thin, veneer coat of plaster is applied to the entire surface of the drywall. One marked advantage is that plaster has a greater strength rating than drywall, so it is more resistant to the everyday knocks and scrapes that walls may encounter.

OSB or PLYWOOD

OSB stands for oriented strand board and is used mainly as exterior wall sheathing or as floor underlayment. If you are dealing with a nonresidential structure, OSB may work well as an interior wall covering. While it is not fire rated, OSB, particularly half-inch or thicker, provides a solid interior wall covering for structures like sheds and workshops--places where walls will get scuffed and bumped quite often. OSB can be painted but the "dazzle" pattern of the stranded wood underneath usually will show underneath paint layers. Note, too, that OSB often has a waxy surface which makes it difficult for the paint to adhere.

Half-inch plywood will provide a similar wall covering, the main difference being that plywood is easier to paint (but still will show wood grain) and is easier to handle than OSB as it is slightly lighter.

PLASTER AND LATH

"Plaster and lath" is not only the two words plaster and lath, but combined defines a method of finishing interior walls that rarely is used anymore except to repair existing plaster and lath walls. Precedes the use of drywall as a means of covering up studs on the interior of a house.

First, a substrate in the form of a grid of lath is nailed perpendicular to the open house studs roughly a finger-width apart from each other. Then a thick layer of wet plaster is hand-troweled onto the lath and allowed to dry, before finish surfaces such as paint or wallpaper are applied.

Although few houses are built from scratch with the lath and plaster technique, countless houses remain with this type of building material. Homeowners can repair plaster walls by themselves quite easily. Also, companies which specialize in finishing drywall may be able to repair plaster walls, as well. Of course, urban areas that have a large quantity of older houses may have tradesmen who specialize only in plaster application and repairs.

Source: Lee Wallender at www.about.com

Interior Paint Colours - Choose the best one for your home

2011-06-17T12:43:00.010+01:00

RED

Red is the color of passion, action, danger and desire.

In the home red rouses appetites in dining rooms and to seduce in bedrooms; adds warmth, to unloved areas like hallways and stairways; stimulates activity in kitchens; avoid stress-inducing red in offices.

In style red is sexy in a 'Moulin rouge' style boudoir (think velvet drapes and black lace); sleek, chic and contemporary in an oriental-style living room; classic, in darker shades in a formal, Empire-look dining room.

ORANGE

Orange has a sense of humour. It laughs out loud. Frank Sinatra once said: 'Orange is the happiest colour'. He was right.

In the home orange stimulates. Like red, orange inspires activity, so use a dash in your office.
Adds va-va-voom. Breathe life into sombre north-facing rooms and dark stairwells.Energises; use tangy oranges for children's playrooms - they'll love you for it.

In style orange is earthy and vibrant in an African-style living room (think big pots and wood stool ); retro, in a 70s-style living room with low-level brown leather sofas; exotic,with turquoise and hot pink in a Mexican-style look.

GOLD

Go for gold. After all you rule your own castle.You don't need to be rich to indulge yourself with gold.

In the home gold indulges; bathe in gold's vibrant, warm rays in your hot tub. Lightens and brightens; gold adds warmth to dark north-facing rooms. Looks luxurious; give your living room a movie star allure with gold gloss.

In style gold is decadent; turn your home into a castle with golds, deep violets and rich reds. Summery; imagine the sun on ripe barley and team gold with soft blues and fresh whites. Ageless; gold is always in fashion, but for contemporary looks combine gold with cool neutrals.

YELLOW

Sunny, bright yellow uplifts us. It inspires confidence and ideas. Yellow is the first colour to be seen by newborns. It brings light and life.

In the home yellow lightens sunless, north-facing rooms and creates a feeling of space in small rooms. Energises; pale yellow works as a morning pick-me-up in bathrooms. Welcomes; bring a beaming yellow into kitchens and living rooms.

In style yellow is bright and breezy in a sunflower-and-blue French country kitchen look; stylish and chic in a retro 50s-style kitchen with vintage accessories; classic with white ceilings in an Edwardian-style living room.

GREEN

Give green the green light. It heals, nurtures and comforts. Green, abundant in nature, is the colour of health, growth and good judgement.

In the home green restores body and mind in bathrooms with jade and mint shades. Reflects; in home offices, warmer shades encourage good decision making. Is refreshing; a crisp, apple green with white looks uplifting in kitchens.

In style green is naturally chic in olive or shades with woods and dark leathers
in living rooms. Timeless with apricots and tans in Art Deco-style bedrooms. Zen-like in its softer shades; think Japanese (cane furniture, grasses, celadon pots).

BLUE

Dive in to blue. It's a colour that cools, calms and soothes. Blue is the world's favourite colour. It lets us relax and reflect.

In the home blue creates calm in bedrooms by stilling the mind, particularly in its softer tints. Stimulates ideas in stronger shades in home offices or studies. Revives body and mind in bathrooms; choose fresh blues like aqua and turquoise.

In style blue is refreshing in a Moroccan blue-white bathroom scheme. Laid-back and chic with chocolate leather sofas and dark woods in a living room. Timeless (think Wedgwood pottery, Delft tiles) in a Georgian-style kitchen.

VIOLET

Violet is connected with the spirit. It is creative and inspirational. Violet is a deeply spiritual colour, but it's also associated with royalty and riches.

In the home violet relaxes. Violet encourages meditation and repose in bathrooms. Is glamorous; plum shades with silver in a living room look indulgent. Inspires; as violet encourages creativity, use it on studio walls.

In style violet is opulent; conjure up an 'Arabian Nights' look with gold and violet cushions.
Luxurious; mix lighter shades with chocolate brown for a modern, comfortable style. Tranquil; go for the urban loft look with light shades and designer furnishings.

NEUTRAL

Neutrals are easy-going. These colours go anywhere anytime. Neutrals are the perfect canvas for all the things you love to live with.

In the home neutrals help you unwind. Neutrals help you put your feet up in living rooms; are peaceful; in bedrooms, these serene hues help induce sleep. Calm; in bathrooms or studies
these quiet colours allow your thoughts to roam.

In style neutrals is good for natural looks; think modern rustic (mix with leather, wicker, hemp).
Minimalist; for a clean-lined look that's not too cold, neutrals are perfect. Ageless; neutrals go with everything so these colours can form the basis to many styles.

Source: www.dulux.in

DIY Plastering - Tools

2011-06-02T16:35:00.009+01:00

If you find yourself involved in a home improvement project such as hanging drywall, painting or wallpapering, having the proper plastering tools are essential. Fortunately, all of these items are available at your local hardware or home improvement store.

TROWEL

A trowel is an important plastering tool that allows you to smooth the plaster after applying it to the wall. This tool is used to flatten the plaster down over the area intended for plastering. It’s important to have a good, clean surface on the trowel to provide for a uniform finish.

HAWK

A hawk is used by the professionals to carry the plaster with them as they move down the wall. An advantage of this, over carrying plaster in a pan or working from the bucket directly, is the amount of drywall compound that that can be picked up by the trowel in each “scooping” action. As plaster sticks to the hawk after a few seconds the hawk can be tipped up at a 90 degree angle whilst scooping plaster off with the trowel.

MUD PAN

A mud pan can be used instead of a hawk for the less experienced plasterer. While it can be more wasteful, time consuming and laborious scooping plaster material out of the pan, it is harder to spill material onto the floor with the pan than with a hawk.

UTILITY KNIFE/SCISSORS

A utility knife or scissors will help cut plaster tape to size. The utility knife is employed to square out the edge of the hole to be plastered over if repairing damaged walls. Straight edged holes are easier to smooth over for an even surface.

SPONGE/SANDPAPER

A wet sponge is used to smooth out unevenness that may occur after plastering the wall.
Coarse grit sandpaper is used quickly to smooth out large areas of rough unevenness, and then the finer grit is used to finish up the area.

JOINTING KNIFE

A jointing knife is essential for defining a straight line and edging into tight spaces such as corners and those areas that are tight, such as between a window near the wall and the wall that is perpendicular to it. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes as needed. Angled jointing knives help reach hard to reach angles.

STEP LADDER

A step ladder is an invaluable tool for reaching the holes in the walls at the higher areas. Try to get a ladder which includes a pan shelf at the top. You can carry the materials and tools you are using in the pan to reduce fatigue and time spent going up and down the ladder.

BUCKET

Never discount the importance of a couple buckets of clear, fresh water for keeping tools clean and for wetting the sponge during the project.

By having the right plastering tools for the job, your next home improvement project will go off without a hitch.

Source: www.davesdiytips.com

Exterior house painting preparation.

2011-05-30T13:51:00.003+01:00

The most important step in exterior house painting does not involve a paintbrush but rather paint scraping tools. Preparing the surface prior to painting your home will make or break your paint job. It is rarely the paint film itself that fails but rather the adhesion of the paint to the surface below (often called "substrate" in painting lingo). The reason paint fails to adhere is because the surface to which it was applied was dirty, wet or was loose itself. So making sure your paint surface is clean, dry, free from grease, oils and flaking or loose paint will give your primer and paint a good surface from which to bond. Painting the exterior of your house over a dirty or poorly prepared surface is like building a house on a bad foundation, and that's never been a good idea.

Let's review the tools you'll need to get byour house ready for a paint job that will last many years.

Difficulty level:

Average (Labouriuos)

Needed tools and materials:

Paint Scraper
Putty Knife
Sandpaper/Sanding Block
Stiff Brush
Heat Gun Paint Remover (optional)
Power Washer (optional)

PREPARATION

With your home painting project you first need to work around the house before you can work on the house. So that nothing gets damaged, you need to protect surrounding landscape plantings, air conditioning units, BBQ grills and the like from cleaning agents, paint chips, paint splatters and other debris.

1. Turn off power to the air conditioner condensing unit.

2. Turn off gas to the BBQ grill and other appliances.

3. Using canvas drop cloths cover the exterior appliances, foundation plantings and other delicate plants that could be damaged. Don't use plastic tarps since they do not breathe like canvas and the plantings will swelter under the plastic sheets.

4. You may want to tie a cord around tall bushes near the house and pull the bush away from the home and stake it in the ground so the bush does not interfere with painting.

REMOVING FIXTURES

Once this is done, it's a good time to remove things affixed to the home.

1. Remove light fixtures, mailbox, shutters, decorations, etc.

2. Patch, repair and paint shutters and any other items. You'll replace these once the painting of the house body is complete.

REMOVING LOOSE PAINT

The first step in paint surface preparation is to remove the loose paint. One method used to do this and clean the house at the same time is called "power washing." Some people love these tools and some don't. A power washer uses water from your hose and increases the water pressure as it leaves the wand to between 2,200 to 3,500 psi. In the hands of an experienced painting professional this tool can be useful. However in the hands of the inexperienced it can damage your home:

At high pressures the water jet can etch wood, even brick and blast mortar from joints.

Power washer will remove loose paint but may also lift or weaken the bond of good paint surrounding the removed loose paint.

Other issues with power washing include:

The high pressure water can soak the wall and requires time to dry out before painting.

Since the power washer does not fully remove all loose paint, the wall still needs hand scraping after the power washing and drying period.

In the end, power washing is no substitute for hand scraping.

SCRAPING

I wish there were a way around this step but in the world of good paint preparation, removing loose paint and preparing the surface will always involve hand scraping and sanding. As mentioned earlier, even with power washing you will still have to scrape and sand to properly prepare the surface since not all loose paint is removed with a power washer.

1. Only work on removing paint and sanding when the paint is dry. There are several tools you can use including a paint scraper, putty knife, heat gun paint remover, sandpaper and sanding block.

2. To start scraping you find the weak link. Using a 6"-8" wide putty knife, find the loosest part of the peeling paint and get under it and lift and scrape.

3. Use the corner of the putty knife to dig and chip at corners of the bad paint to remove as much poorly adhered paint as possible. You can try wire brushes too, but I've found they work only on the looser paint and you need the hard edge of a scraper or putty knife to really remove loose paint.

4. A detail scraper is another scraping tool you may use to scrape away at loose paint in small detailed areas like around molding.

5. On wood siding make sure you don't gouge the wood with scraping.

6. A heat gun paint remover can be used to loosen thicker paint. Just make sure to keep the heat gun moving to avoid excessive heat build up. As the paint softens, scrape it loose with a putty knife.

SANDING

Once the loose paint is scraped away and all remaining paint has good bond to the surface, the next step is to sand the surfaces where paint has been removed. It is important to feather or blend and minimize the hard edge visible at the seam of where paint has been removed and where it remains. Feathering is especially important on wood siding since siding is smoother than say a painted brick surface and surface irregularities are more noticeable on smooth siding.

1. Before sanding fill in any cracks, holes or gouges with exterior epoxy wood filler and let dry.

2. If you have large areas that need patching, either replace the wood or if it's not that serious, you can try an automotive body filler instead of wood filler.

3. With the paint scraped and the holes filled, you are ready to sand. Start with about an 80 grit sandpaper and an orbital power sander for larger areas.

4. For smaller sanding areas, a sanding block with hand sanding works well. Use about 120 grit sandpaper in these areas.

5. Sand areas smooth working to feather and eliminate all hard edges.

WASHING

Once the surface is scraped and sanded and the surrounding landscape area is protected with cloth drop cloths, it's time to give your house a good washing. Cleaning the surface free of dirt, grease, loose or flaking paint is essential for the primer and paint to properly adhere to the substrate.

1. Remove your home's window screens, storm doors and storm windows and anything else that should not get painted.

2. If you have a power washer use it at the lowest pressure possible while still cleaning the surface of dirt. Use a wide spread fan tip and NEVER place the tip close to the wall surface. Remember, you can do serious damage to your exterior wall if improperly used.

3. If you're going to wash the house by hand it's worth it to get a car wash brush unit that gets attached to the garden hose to help make shorter work of this task.

4. Put on your eye protection and in a bucket mix water and trisodium phosphate (TSP) to clean the wall surface and degloss any existing paint. Be careful using TSP, it is a powerful chemical.

5. Work from the top of your house down. Rinse each section you complete with clean water.

If your house has any areas of mildew, you must kill the mildew with a mildew cleaner or make your own solution using bleach and water.

DRYING

Once the house has been washed and cleaned, let the house dry. This is very important or else the paint will peel prematurely ruining the entire project. Not letting the house dry before painting is a common cause of paint failure.

If you're going to paint with latex paint, then wait at least one day. If you're using oil based paint then you need to wait at least one week before you paint. If you have used a power washer at high pressure to clean and remove loose paint, then you may have to extend these drying time recommendations depending how wet the wall surface became.

Caulk gaps around windows, doors, between siding, molding, columns, etc. If you have wood siding, look for nail heads that may be sticking up a little bit. If you find any, nail them back down using a nail countersink and putty the hole.

Once you've completed these tasks, you're now ready to paint with the confidence that you have done a professional job in paint preparation and your paint job will last many years.

Home renovation tips: Stripping exterior paint

2011-05-26T18:31:00.003+01:00

When the paint is peeling on a house, many homeowners opt for covering it with vinyl siding. But if you've got an old house with a great exterior, such as real clapboard, you may not want to hide its beauty. Then exterior paint stripping is your only option.

Stripping paint is hard, nasty, and potentially dangerous. What are your options for stripping exterior paint?

PROPANE BLOWTORCH

The blowtorch has been a perennial favourite of homeowners for many years because it's cheap and relatively fast. But its disadvantages far outweigh its advantages. First, it's dangerous. Applying a very hot flame to old, often-brittle wood siding is inviting a visit from the fire department. Not only can start a fire on the wood siding, but you can unintentionally hit pockets within the walls that may contain other dry things. As any homeowner who has removed a wall knows, inside you'll find newspapers, blown-in paper-based insulation, and other highly flammable things. Secondly, hitting lead-based paint with flame releases toxic lead fumes. You can be certain that your old house has lead-based paint. My advice? Ditch this option.

HEAT GUN

Electric heat guns are safer than blowtorches because they don't operate hot enough to release toxic fumes. You also have less of a risk of burning down your house, but the risk is still there. Keep in mind, you'll be working with a cord (unlike the propane torch, which is self-contained). They aren't really a viable option for large areas, but they do work well for small, difficult areas or for ornamental surfaces.

ELECTRIC SANDERS

Orbital (rotating) or belt sanders are a good option. They rip off the paint quickly. However, if you lay into the sander too hard, you risk gouging the wood. And again, there's the lead-based paint problem. Everything that the sander takes off is immediately converted into dust. Dust that goes into your hair, face, and lungs. Check in your locality if it's even legal to use these types of sanders. Some communities ban them.

SANDBLASTING

Definitely not a do-it-yourself project, sandblasting does remove paint but it's also very effective at removing wood. If you choose to go with this option, be aware that sandblasting will bring up the grain in your wood so that it has a very rough, grooved appearance.

CHEMICAL STRIPPERS

Now you've got two toxins to battle: lead and the chemicals in the stripper. Despite the toxicity, chemical strippers do have their place in the workshop. It's satisfying to see that paint bubble right off. Save it for small projects, though.

SCRAPING

A sharp, rigid putty knife or a blade designed just for paint scraping is your best bet. You'll minimize the dust, and you'll have better control than if you used a sander. If you've got very loose or alligatored paint, scraping really is easier than any other option. Get a sharpener or a whetstone to keep that scraper sharpened up. Scraping--though admittedly hard work--tends to be the best choice for general exterior paint stripping chores.

By Lee Wallender
www.about.com

9 Amazing Bathroom Designs

2011-05-23T12:54:00.012+01:00

NATURE INSPIRED BATHROOM BY PODESTA

A curved vanity top and oval basin - both in limestone - soften the look, complemented by St Adrien pale polished marble floor tiles that have been sealed with 4 layers of acid-catalysed lacquer. Warm timber and elegant stone, oak for the bench seat and American walnut for the rest of the cabinetry add a comtemporary feel.

LUXURY BATHROOM BY KASCH

Luxury is characterised by refined abundance in these fabulous bath interior from Kasch. Have you ever drunk sake from a wooden ‘masu’ cup? The Japanese pour sake into the wooden box cup until it overflows into the saucer below. This Oriental association lends an air of generosity to each bath design, simple though they may be. Wide open floor space of tile or wood draw the eye immediately to the centre of attention: the overflow bathtub set right into the floor. A focus on natural elements, such as pebbles used to surround the tub or as a border, keeps the design firmly grounded. Proximity to other water features, such as ponds, lakes, or simply water channels filled with flowering water plants re-emphasise the importance of water to us.

MODERN BATHROOM FROM VIVA CERAMICA

This modern bathroom design by Viva Ceramica creating a cool contemporary feel to your bathroom space. Featuring an inspired blend of retro-industrial-chic style, this modern bathroom design features contemporary white tile with an edge. A large-scale black-and-white floral motif adds interest without overwhelming the space, putting some pop into this otherwise pretty space. Chic chrome-plated fixtures shine in the background with an understated elegance, making way for the colorful star of this show – the unusual soft lilac-purple vanity and matching pendant light fixtures. Combining art with function, these colorful accents really bring all the elements of this design together.

CREATIVE BATHROOM BY MASTELLA

Italian bath furniture design company Mastella has introduced a bathroom suite inspired by Calla lily flower. It’s designed by architect Oriano Favaretto and looks organic and very creative. The shape of the freestanding bathtub and pedestal sinks reflects the organic flower design, making them the focal point of the bathroom space.

STONE BATHROOM BY BIGELLI MARMI

Very sleek and elegant, the this bathroom fixture will truly give your bathroom an extraordinary appearance, and the creative stone made the collection preserve the value of creative stones, while bringing in the modern design that suits in every contemporary bathrooms of today. The freestanding basin made the collection unique and eventually made the collection stands out from the rest.

MASTER BATHROOM BY PEARL

This Master bathroom design is featuring by stunning drop-in bathtub and a built-in fireplace. In the first look, you will be give new appreciating. Beautiful master bathroom design for modern house. The Eternal drop-in bathtub makes a striking centerpiece in this sumptuous bathroom, complete with hydrotherapy, heat therapy, air therapy, chroma therapy and aromatherapy for your at-home spa.

OUTSTANDING BATHROOM FROM FRANCO PECCHIOLLI

Inspired by the life aquatic, this contemporary bathroom features a new ceramic tile collection by Italian designer Franco Pecchioli. Drenched in vivid oceanic shades of aquamarine speckled with black and white, the bathroom is bathed in the soothing tones of the deep. Bringing water and earth together, these ceramic bathroom tiles incorporate organic materials like metals and mosaics for a raw yet refined look.The piece de resistance of this elegant bathroom is the bathtub, finished inside and out with a blend of mixed motifs – ceramic slabs on the exterior, square ceramic tiles lining the interior, and flower-pattern tiles at the very bottom.

FAMILY BATHROOM BY GLOBE BATHROOMS

A stylish way to ease early morning pressure on the bathroom, matching basins look fantastic and also give family members their own personal storage space. Varying the height of the cabinets not only adds visual interest but also caters for differences in height of those using the basin and mirror – an important consideration that’s often over looked.

COLOURFUL BATHROOM BY BRISTAN

Painting walls in a shade you'd not normally consider in a bathroom is another easy way to create an elegant feel, as is choosing a suite with splashes of colour rather than pure white. As for paint, choose one that's suitable for bathrooms and go for as matt a finish as possible.

5 gadgets for DIYers

2011-05-21T15:01:00.010+01:00

A BETTER WAY TO PAINT

If you worry about stepping on a tray full of paint as you’re coating your walls, the EZ Twist paint stick can ease your mind; by combining a roller with an in-handle paint reservoir, EZ Twist eliminates the need for extraneous trays. The paint reservoir is replenished via an independent fill tube that connects on one side to a snap-on paint can cover, and on the other to an opening in the roller handle. A simple twist of the handle creates suction that fills the reservoir with up to 18 ounces of paint, enough to cover 8 square feet of wall. Surplus paint can be returned to the can by reversing the motion, and parts clean up by flushing with water. EZ Twist comes with a roller cover (3⁄8″ nap), splatter shield, fill tube, and paint can cover. Available at www.amazon.co.uk

AIR GRIP LASER LEVEL

In an old house, where there’s rarely a straight line, a level is a must, and one that keeps your hands free is even better. Ryobi’s tiny laser level vacuum-grips the wall, even on uneven surfaces, to stay in place while you align shelves and picture frames. Unlike other hands-free levels that use sticky paper or pins, this one won’t mark your walls. Available at www.homedepot.com

METAL CLEANUP WITH MAGNETIC SWEEPER

For quick and easy cleanup of nails, screws, bolts, and other metal items around the shop or in the yard—like after a roofing repair project—the Magnetic Sweep from Veritas can be your best friend. The strong 9½”-wide magnet easily attracts up to 2 pounds of metal per sweep. Its low profile and flexible neck help it fit easily under cars, bushes, or shelves, and it also boasts an extendable handle that adjusts from 21″ to 47″. Available at www.amazon.com

HANDS-FREE FLASHLIGHT

Anyone who’s struggled to hold a flashlight while working in a crawlspace will appreciate the new Gorillatorch Blade, which stands on articulating ball-and-socket tripod legs that bend to wrap around just about anything—and what they can’t wrap around, they usually can stick to thanks to strong magnets in their feet. With 130 lumens and features like an adjustable wide- to spot-beam, the Blade makes getting targeted lighting where you need it a snap. Its lithium-ion battery also easily recharges through either an AC adapter or the USB port on your computer. Available at www.amazon.co.uk

TAPE MEASURE FOR MORONS ;)

If you are a do-it-yourself kind of guy that is a little simple likes to keep things simple, the Dumb Handman’s Tape Measure will be your new best friend.

As you can see, the units of measurement are measured out in actual feet – not numbers. Unfortunately, if my handyman showed up using something like this I would have serious doubts about his craftsmanship ;)

Sources:
www.oldhouseonline.com
www.nerdapproved.com

DIY Pest Control - Ants

2011-05-19T13:20:00.005+01:00

The truth about ants is that they are pests. When an ant scout finds a source of food, the army soon follows to get as much of the food out of the area before a larger predator comes along and starts eating the ants. The unfortunate thing is, ants are very versatile and can be incredibly difficult to get rid of. Fortunately, there are ways to get rid of them.

Begin by cleaning up the area that the ants are infesting. If there area is dirty or has a lot of scrap food, the ants are going to continue coming back. If you cut their source of nourishment, they aren’t going to come nearly as much because there isn’t any food there.

Get rid of any scouts. A scout ant is an ant that patrols around on its own. When it finds food, it goes back to the colony, leaving a trail behind it to follow back. Once the scout gets back to the colony, more ants will come to start collecting the food. Killing the scout means no ants will know the place exists.

Fill any cracks that might be in the walls. Seal windows and doors. If you get rid of any of these doorways for the ants, they will have to search for other ways in. More importantly for you, though, it’ll save money on energy because cold air won’t be able to get in during the winter to combat the heat you’re using.

Get rid of the nest. Finding the nest can be tricky; however, when it is found, completely destroy it. This doesn’t mean filling the hole in because they will simply dig it out. This means pouring boiling water down into the nest so that it completely floods the entire nest. This will kill the queen which will result in the extinction of that colony.

Mix boric acid powder with sugar and water. Take one cup of water, mix it with two cups of sugar, and two tablespoons of boric acid. The ants will come, take the food, and then bring it home. However, because there is acid in it, it will kill the entire colony. The trick is to create a poison strong enough to kill the colony over time, but not strong enough to kill the ants before they get home.

Mix a teaspoon and a half of dish soap and a teaspoon of rubbing alcohol into a spray bottle. Fill it to the top, shake, and then spray. Spray it on the openings where the ants are coming. It’ll kill any ants on contact and, more importantly, they won’t come back again. Wipe up when you’re done and it is safe for kids to be in the area.

Killing ants can be difficult and it does require a little tact because they are tricky pests. However, cleaning up the area that the ants are coming to is one of the most effective ways of getting rid of ants. Don’t give them an environment that they can use and they won’t stick around.

Source: www.getridofants.org

Spring Maintenance Tips

2011-03-29T19:22:00.003+01:00

After a long, dark winter, spring's bright sun and warm winds are, well, a breath of fresh air. The only downside? All that sunshine spotlights your leaf-filled gutters, cracked sidewalks and the dead plants in last year's flower beds. Dwight Barnett, a certified master inspector with the American Society of Home Inspectors, shared this checklist to help you target the areas that need maintenance so you can get your chores done quickly, leaving you time to go outside and play in the sunshine.

1. Check for loose or leaky gutters. Improper drainage can lead to water in the basement or crawl space. Make sure downspouts drain away from the foundation and are clear and free of debris.

2. Low areas in the yard or next to the foundation should be filled with compacted soil. Spring rains can cause yard flooding, which can lead to foundation flooding and damage. Also, when water pools in these low areas in summer, it creates a breeding ground for insects.

3. Use a screwdriver to probe the wood trim around windows, doors, railings and decks. Make repairs now before the spring rains do more damage to the exposed wood.

4. From the ground, examine roof shingles to see if any were lost or damaged during winter. If your home has an older roof covering, you may want to start a budget for replacement. The summer sun can really damage roof shingles. Shingles that are cracked, buckled or loose or are missing granules need to be replaced. Flashing around plumbing vents, skylights and chimneys need to be checked and repaired by a qualified roofer.

5. Examine the exterior of the chimney for signs of damage. Have the flue cleaned and inspected by a certified chimney sweep.

6. Inspect concrete slabs for signs of cracks or movement. All exterior slabs except pool decks should drain away from the home's foundation. Fill cracks with a concrete crack filler or silicone caulk. When weather permits, power-wash and then seal the concrete.

7. Remove firewood stored near the home. Firewood should be stored at least 18 inches off the ground at least 2 feet from the structure.

8. Check outside hose faucets for freeze damage. Turn the water on and place your thumb or finger over the opening. If you can stop the flow of water, it is likely the pipe inside the home is damaged and will need to be replaced. While you're at it, check the garden hose for dry rot.

9. Have a qualified heating and cooling contractor clean and service the outside unit of the air conditioning system. Clean coils operate more efficiently, and an annual service call will keep the system working at peak performance levels. Change interior filters on a regular basis.

10. Check your gas- and battery-powered lawn equipment to make sure it is ready for summer use. Clean equipment and sharp cutting blades will make yardwork easier.

Source: www.hgtv.com

Planning loft conversion? Know the rules!

2011-02-10T19:20:00.003Z

A loft conversion for your house is considered to be permitted development, not requiring an application for planning permission, provided certain limits and conditions are met.

1. Loft conversions are NOT permitted development for houses on designated land (designated land includes national parks and the Broads, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, conservation areas and World Heritage Sites).

2. To be permitted development any additional roof space created must not exceed these volume allowances:

40 cubic metres for terraced houses
50 cubic metres for detached and semi-detached houses

Bear in mind that any previous roof space additions must be included within this volume
allowance. Although you may not have created additional space a previous owner may have
done so.

3. An extension beyond the plane of the existing roof slope of the principal elevation that fronts a highway is NOT permitted development.

4. Materials to be similar in appearance to the existing house.

5. No part of the extension to be higher than the highest part of the existing roof.

6. Verandas, balconies or raised platforms are NOT permitted development.

7. Any side-facing windows must be obscureglazed and non-opening unless the parts which can be opened are more than 1.7 metres above the floor of the room in which it is installed.

8. Roof extensions, apart from hip to gable ones, to be set back, as far as is practicable, at least 20cms from the eaves.

9. Work on a loft or a roof may affect bats. You need to consider protected species when planning work of this type. A survey may be needed, and if bats are using the building, a licence may be required.

The permitted development allowances described here apply to houses, not flats, maisonettes or other buildings. You should check with your Local Planning Authority whether permitted development rights apply – they may have been removed. Other consents may be required if your house is listed or in a designated area.

BUILDING REGULATIONS

Building regulations approval is required to convert a loft or attic into a liveable space. This section provides guidance for making alterations to the loft space of an existing house which is no more than two storeys high. Requirements for alterations to an apartment or other dwellings like maisonettes, or houses over three storeys, will be similar but may be more extensive and possibly extend to other parts of the building.

The regulations will be applied to ensure, for example:

the structural strength of the new floor is sufficient
the stability of the structure (including the existing roof) is not endangered
safe escape from fire
safely designed stairs to the new floor
reasonable sound insulation between the conversion and the rooms below

If you plan to make the loft space more accessible or more habitable by, for example, installing a stair to it and improving it by boarding it out and lining the walls / rafters etc, more extensive work is likely to be required and the Building Regulations are likely to apply.

It is recommended that you contact Building Control to discuss your proposal and for further advice and you must also find out whether work you intend to carry out falls within The Party Wall etc. Act 1996.

CREATING A LIVEABLE SPACE

If you decide to create a liveable space (a 'livable space' is where you intend to use the room as a normal part of your house, this includes spare bedrooms which may be used infrequently) in an existing loft space of a home it is likely to require a range of alterations.

Many of these could have an adverse impact on the building and its occupants if they are not properly thought out, planned and undertaken in accordance with the requirements of the legislation.

With regard to the structural stability of the existing walls when undertaking a conversion of a loft space, consideration will need to be given as to how the new loads will be supported. For example, if new floor joists are provided and they are to be supported by an existing wall, the wall will need to continue all the way down through the house to a foundation or alternatively the wall will need to be provided with an adequate intermediate support.

Some houses have through lounges on the ground floor where the existing load-bearing wall that did take a load down to the foundation has been removed, or it may have originally been built as a through lounge, with a steel/timber beam installed over the opening. This beam should be checked that it is strong enough to carry any new loads from the loft conversion are added.

Generally the additional load (weight) from construction and use of the new loft room(s) does not mean a significant increase on the load being transferred to the foundations.

However, in some cases, the increase in load could be significant and the adequacy of the existing foundations to carry this extra load will need to be checked. It may be necessary for the capability of the foundations to be increased by underpinning them. A structural engineer or your Building Control Body will be able to advise you.

FIRE SAFETY

When converting an existing roof space into a room or rooms the provisions for escape need to be considered throughout the full extent of the escape route. This often means that additional fire protection will be necessary in the existing parts of the house.

For example, a typical loft conversion to a two-storey house will result in the need to provide new fire-resisting doors and sometimes partitions to protect the stairway. This is because it is too dangerous to escape via windows from floors above first floor level.

Mains powered, interlinked smoke alarms will also need to be provided within the stairway at each level.

It may also be necessary to upgrade the fire protection to some parts of the structure of the house such as the floors.

Find out more at www.planningportal.gov.uk

DIY Pest Control - Mice

2011-02-03T18:26:00.004Z

Your primary concern should be on how to get rid of mice if you ascertain their presence in your home. Mice and their waste are hazardous for health and can be the cause for many diseases. Mice also damage the wiring in your house and generally bite into anything they can get their teeth into. If you need to get rid of these pests in your home fast, following are some ways to make it possible.

CONFIRM MICE EXIST

How do you determine that you have mice in your home? You will find chewed up newspapers and packing material, mice droppings, squealing noises coming from walls or ceilings, and sometimes even mice foot prints. You will find unexplained holes and the scrambling of mice when you open cupboards or kitchen cabinets

CLEAN YOUR HOME WELL

Once you are sure you have mice, you have to determine what is attracting these rodents to your home. One of the most common reasons is food in your kitchen, especially when you leave dishes in the sink over night and food in cardboard boxes. Clear the food from your home or put it in air tight containers so mice cannot get to it. Pet food is another attraction for these rodents. Locate where the mice are entering from and fix that opening. If the hole is small, put steel wool well secured with nails there. so they will be unable to bite through and enter.

LOCATE THEIR HIDING PLACE

Keep looking until you find where the mice are hiding in your home. That is no easy task. They will hide and start families inside your home. Keep looking for tell tale signs, like mice droppings and tiny mice footprints. Once you discover where they are hiding, arrange for traps with bait so they are caught and removed.

TRAPS ARE A MUST

Mouse traps are the best way of getting rid of mice the natural way. Not only are they easily available, they are inexpensive and easy to set up. All they need is bait and pronto, before you know it, they will do their job! There are also electric mouse traps available that will electrocute a mouse in ten seconds on contact. A more humane trap is shaped like a cage where a mouse can get in but will be unable to get out. You will then have to make sure you let them loose away from your house, or else they will simply come back. There are different varieties of traps that are inexpensive, easily available in any home store, and quick to use.

GLUE TRAPS

Try getting rid of mice with glue traps. They are inexpensive and easily available everywhere. They come ready with bait on them. You can make it more attractive to the mice by adding a bit of cheese if you want. Place these traps all over your home. If you have small children or pets in your home, place these traps in places where they can’t get to them, like behind the refrigerator, under the staircase, back of your cupboards or under your sink. Make sure you check these traps everyday, because they are very effective and you don’t want a forgotten dead mouse stinking up the place.

HUMANE TRAPS

These are traps that look like tiny cages. The bait that you place inside will attract a mouse and he will try to get to it. Once in, he can’t get out and is left stuck inside, until you find him alive and kicking. You will have to then open the trap and let the mouse out somewhere, preferably far from your home so he doesn’t come back.

SPRING SNAP TRAPS

These traps are also very effective and easily available in local hardware stores. They are inexpensive and the most popular. They have been around for a long time and are simple to use. All you have to do is set them up where you want to put them, add bait, and wait. Same care applies to placing them if you have small kids or pets in your home. They can be a bit messy if a mouse is caught because you will have to dispose of the catch.

POISON

When all else fails, the final resort should be rat poison. The downside of this is that the mouse can die anywhere inside and you will have a foul smell flooding your home until you find out where he died. Special care has to be taken if you have small children or pets in your house. Accidents have been known to happen, so extreme caution should be taken when using poison. The above three methods offered are safer and more effective in helping rid your home of mice. Poison should only be considered as the extreme last option after you have tried all kinds of traps and have failed.

SECURE YOUR YARD

Look outside and try to find any place where the mice have made their home. This could be in uncut grass, in old abandoned sheds, or garages. Get rid of the mice by putting up traps and clearing the place. Give the shed and garage a good cleaning and spray with a mouse repellent. Check all the entries to your house to make sure there is no remaining cracks or holes a mouse can use. Finally, seal any loose opening, so all entries are secure and safe from these rodents.

Source: www.doityourself.com

10 Amazing Kitchen Designs

2011-01-31T19:48:00.011Z

Look and be inspired!

PHILIPPE STARCK FOR WAREDORFER

Library kitchen features the bookshelf which highlights the union between culture and food in domestic life.

KITCHENS BY KRENGEL

Slab-door natural wood cabinets get black accents and black countertops for contrast and depth. Blue pendant lights and custom bar stools with leopard-print upholstery add personality.

SAWHILL CUSTOM KITCHENS & DESIGN INC.

English Tudor meets Bavarian Renaissance, making for a splash of castle feel in this kitchen. A brick hearth with ceramic backsplash mural frames the Wolf range. Dark wood custom cabinets from Plato Woodwork with apothecary drawers and wicker baskets lend an air of age and authenticity.

VENERE CURVED BY RECORD CUCINE

The Venere kitchens set a fresh mood for your cooking space and thanks to their ergonomic design they also provide great functionality.

WILLIAM DIAMOND & ANTHONY BARATTA

Do you swoon over retro details? Designers William Diamond and Anthony Baratta mixed old and new in this colorful kitchen. The Italian lamps are circa 1960, and the island is custom-made. Accessorize with classic appliances, like a colorful KitchenAid mixer.

COLOGNE MAPLE BY SASI

Finished in fashionable Maple with rolled edge relief which gently flows to the curved outer edges. Full size satin metal ‘T’ bar handles add a finishing touch that helps create a kitchen for the modernist.

TINA LYNNE MULLER FOR DRURY DESIGN

The large island offers generous space for entertaining and casual family dining. Limestone flooring in shades of charcoal, tan, and gold contrasts the white cabinetry. The wall across the room from the sink houses a coffee bar, microwave drawer, icemaker, and a large walnut hutch containing the refrigerator.

KIM DUFFIN

This funky kitchen has minimalist feel with clean lines however, still have an element of character.

FRENCH COUNTRY KITCHEN BY MOBALPA

French country kitchens have an amusing characteristic. Their style of design enables them to fit into rural farmhouses or the grandest of chateaus. In short they sync well into any house.

JET KITCHEN BY KINZO

The kitchen is like a cockpit design with sophisticated technology installed in it. Kitchen with stunning modern design, the artistic form of aircraft interior design brought into the kitchen to be one stunning design.

A Quick Guide to...Fireplaces

2011-01-27T17:09:00.009Z

Have you decided the allure of a warm, toasty fire is something you can no longer resist? Is the purchase of a fireplace in your future? There are many options depending on your needs, where you plan on installing the fireplace, and your budget. Below are some things to think about and consider.

THINGS TO CONSIDER

Is your fireplace going to be in a new home you're constructing or are you adding one to an existing home? As you probably expect, it's much easier to put in a fireplace if you're building a new home or putting one in an addition you're adding on. If you are adding one to an existing home, you need to consider the following. Is there an existing chimney I can use for venting and is it in good shape? If I don't have a chimney to use for venting is there somewhere I can place the fireplace so that it can directly vent outside? Or am I considering a vent-free fireplace?

What type of fireplace do you want? Would you like a wood-burning fireplace? If you are venting your fireplace through a chimney, the chimney needs to be in good working order. If you don't have a chimney or if it will be very expensive to get the chimney working properly another option for venting your wood-burning fireplace is with a direct venting system. A direct venting system can be used on nearly any room with an exterior wall. Do you prefer a gas fireplace instead of a wood-burning fireplace? A gas fireplace lets you avoid the work and mess of burning wood and can either be vented through a chimney, direct-vented or possibly even using a vent-free system.

Be cautious if considering a vent-free fireplace. Adding a vent-free fireplace to an existing home can be an attractive option to many people because there's no need to worry about having a safe chimney or having to have an outside wall to place the direct vent. And because there's no venting to the outside, there's no heat loss.

If you are considering a vent-free fireplace though, be aware of these proper operations procedures:

do not use in a small confined space

do not use as the only source of heat

vent free fireplace should not be installed if anyone in your home is pregnant, anemic, has respiratory problems; has heart problems, or is diabetic

Another fireplace option is an electric fireplace. The electric fireplaces today are efficient and fairly inexpensive to operate. An electric fireplace is pretty much a "plug and go" item. You take it home, plug it in, and enjoy it. An electric fireplace will generate some heat but is not intended to be used as the primary source of heat in a room.

SHOP AROUND BEFORE YOU BUY

Look before you buy. A great place to do research is a store that sells fireplaces and/or fireplace surrounds. Some companies who specialize in selling brick, stone, and tile for fireplace surrounds also sell the fireplace inserts as well. If you go to their showrooms you'll have the opportunity to see both the fireplaces and some of the fireplace surrounds with different styles of mantles, stone, brick, tile, and hearthstones.

Work with a professional. Unless you are purchasing an electric "plug and go" fireplace or you are an expert in the installation of fireplaces, don't attempt to install one yourself. Consult with a professional because you want to make sure it is installed correctly so there are no dangerous fumes emitted and so the fireplace is not a fire hazard.

TYPES OF FIREPLACES

With gas fireplaces you do not lose any of the heat. This is a common problem with wood-burning fireplaces because the heat escapes up the chimney. The gas fireplace is extremely fuel efficient and are not expensive to purchase. If, on the other hand, you want a gas fireplace that is purely for decoration, then you can also buy inserts in which the grille is hidden or decorated in some way.

Everone is aware of the advantages of having a wood burning fireplace and this is not necessarily for the main reason that comes to mind: heat. There is the notion that a wood burning fireplace comes with the idea of romance and warmth for the soul not to mention the added value to your home if you decide to sell.

Electric fireplaces are really easy to use and you don't have to worry about sparks from burning wood or fumes from gas. These fireplaces light at the flick of a button and radiate the heat to all corners of the room. Electric fireplaces are also cost-effective because they are energy efficient and do not cause a drastic increase in your electricity bill.

An insert is basically a small stove that you set into the fireplace. In addition to providing heat and a cozy feeling, an insert adds an element of elegance to any fireplace. A typical insert consists of glass doors so that the chimney doesn't draw all the heat upwards and not let it radiate out into the room. With gas inserts, you have a temperature control so that it doesn't get too hot. With wood, you basically have to let the fire die down to control the heat, but with either one, you can have a blower that blows the heat where you want it.

HOW TO CHOOSE A MANTEL?

The range of styles and designs available in fireplace mantels often makes it hard to choose the one you want. You do have to consider the style and the décor of your room when you are purchasing a fireplace mantel. Even if you already have a fireplace you can give it a whole new look by adding a mantel. You have to look at the overall effect that the mantel will have on the room and then choose accordingly.

There are many different designs to choose from in the line of fireplace mantels. You might like a Victorian style in various hardwoods and an antique finish. In an older style home with a lot of wood, what would look nicer than one of the colonial styles of fireplace mantels? For a really authentic design, you can also have a genuine stone mantel.

SCREENS

We all love the allure of wood burning fireplaces, but you always need fireplace screens for safety reasons. There are so many types on the market today that it may be difficult to choose the right screen for you. One thing is for sure is you have to have one. Wood gives us a lovely fire, but it also crackles and sparks and this is where your fireplace screen comes in. Of course it does more than protect your home from sparks that may pop out on your floor. It also helps to control your heat and give your chimney help in venting the smoke to the outside.

There are many different kinds that you can buy besides glass. Screens range from luxurious to custom made to the manufactured.

TOOLS

With a wood burning fireplace, it is really essential to have fireplace tools which usually consist of a iron poker, a pair of tongs, a broom and a dustpan. You will find a use for each of these when you need to turn the logs to burn a little brighter - the tongs will do the job without a problem. You will use the poker quite frequently with the adjusting of the logs on the fire. The broom and the dustpan are usually used for the job that nobody wants to do and that is the cleaning of the fireplace. When you decide it is time, these tools will come in handy, too, for sweeping the ashes and gathering them in to a fireproof metal bucket.

Don't forget to shop for a log holder that you can sit by your fireplace to make it easier when you need another log on the fire.

Sources:
www.whatprice.co.uk
www.fireplaceguide.com

How to Start a Construction Company?

2011-01-24T16:56:00.003Z

Starting a construction company can be a profitable venture under the right circumstances. Construction is an industry that will always be in demand and will not yield easily to automation. If you have experience in construction and want to start your own company, be sure to research requirements, laws, and business basics before taking the plunge.

One of the first things to consider before starting your own construction company is financing. If you do not have available funds to purchase materials, tools, and labor, you will need to arrange financing for the start up of your company. You also need to make sure you have a contractor’s license and bonding insurance to protect you.

The amount of financing you need will vary greatly depending on the size of the construction projects you intend to start out with. If you are performing small jobs such as remodels, additions, or decks, you might be able to purchase materials and tools on credit. Remember that interest eats away at profit, so be sure that you can meet a completion date and collect your fees from your clients in a timely manner.

It is extremely important to have an understanding of cost estimation when you bid a project. Underbidding yourself to get jobs will soon eat away at your profits and eventually doom your success. However, if you bid too high, your more established competitors will beat you out. If you do not know how to bid competitively, you should either develop the skill or hire someone who is knowledgeable about construction estimation.

With funds available for purchasing materials, insurance to cover potential accidents, and clients, you will have to turn your attention to your craft force. If you plan to be on site at all times overseeing the construction process, you can easily manage your craft force. If you intend to work hands off, you’ll need to hire someone experienced at leading a crew of workers to make sure the job is done right and according to schedule.

Start with small jobs and advertise by word of mouth. Do a good job for your initial clients, and they will spread the word. Ask to place temporary signs at a completed site for advertising purposes as well. Make sure you have someone available to provide estimates for potential clients without holding up current construction projects. As your company grows, you can hire additional personnel to assist with certain jobs.

Be sure to develop a good relationship with building inspectors in your area and to have both a business attorney and an accountant at your disposal should you need their services. Careful planning and attention to detail will ensure that your construction company stays afloat during the roughest first two years of operation. With a qualified craft force and a desire to succeed, you can grow a solid small to mid-sized construction company within five years.

Source: www.wisegeek.com

Frozen Water Pipes

2010-12-15T17:17:00.004Z

Beware the unexpected cold snap or deep freeze. Frozen water pipes are a serious risk during very cold winter weather. When water freezes in a pipe it expands and can exert pressure over 2,000 pounds per square inch. This pressure is enough to rupture most any pipe filled with water which provides no place for the ice to expand. When the pipe bursts it will spill several hundred liters of water per hour, and that equates to thousands of pounds of damage to your home. Sad when you consider how easy it is to prevent a frozen water pipe.

RISKY LOCATIONS

Pipes are most susceptible to freezing when located:

In an outside wall
Under a sink on an outside wall
In an unheated crawlspace

THAWING

In the situation where your pipe is frozen but not yet ruptured, you need to promptly thaw it out. There are a few thawing techniques we'll review depending on where the frozen pipe is located.

Never use a flame torch because of the fire hazard it creates. Open flame torches are the most common cause of pipe thawing related home fires.

PREPARATION

When pipes are frozen you turn the faucet on and no water comes out or comes out in a trickle. As soon as you realize a pipe is frozen you need to take immediate action.

Open the faucet supplied by the frozen pipe even if you do not yet know where it is frozen.
Identify the frozen water supply pipe and find the location of the blockage
Follow the pipe back from the faucet to where it runs through cold areas such as an exterior wall, unheated crawl space or in some cases an unheated basement if the pipe is near an outside wall.
Often the frozen area of the pipe will be frosted or have ice on it. If the situation is getting critical the pipe may be slightly bulged or look slightly fissured.

FROZEN PIPE BEHIND A WALL

When you find that the frozen pipe serving the faucet is behind a wall or ceiling, you've got a challenge on your hands. You have three choices:

Turn up the heat in the house and wait
Tear out the wall or ceiling section to get at the frozen section of pipe. Then thaw the pipe as an exposed pipe
Use an infrared lamp or lamps to assist in heating the wall section in front of where you think the frozen section is located. Infrared lamps are better than regular heat lamps because they pass through the air without heating it and will direct more energy to warming the wall and frozen pipe

EXPOSED FROZEN PIPE

If the frozen pipe is exposed, then you have several options available but first here are some notes to remember. When working on thawing the pipe leave the main water valve open (near your water meter) and remember to heat the pipe from the faucet toward the frozen area. This way, the water can flow out as the ice melts and the water pressure in the pipe will force the ice out once it melts sufficiently.

One of the best and safest ways to thaw the pipe is to heat the area with a high power hair dryer. Again, make sure to open the faucet and then heat the pipe working back from the faucet toward the frozen blockage. Also, if the pipe is close to the wall, place a cookie sheet behind the pipe to help radiate heat onto the back side of the pipe.

A heat lamp works well to heat an exposed pipe. You can use an infrared or incandescent heat lamp. As before, if the pipe is close to the wall, use a cookie sheet behind the pipe to help reflect heat onto the pipe.

If you have one of those small powerful heaters they work great when warming pipes under a kitchen or vanity base cabinet. Direct the heater onto the frozen section of pipe. It will work like a hair dryer on steroids!

Another technique is to use electric heat tape. This is a ribbon type wrap that has electrical heating elements in it. You wrap it around the pipe you want to heat, and plug it into the wall. The temperature is controlled with a thermostat and the heat tape heats the pipe.

PREVENTING FROZEN PIPES

There are a few things you can do to prevent the problem of freezing pipes from occurring again.

Leave the faucet drip slightly as a trickle. The dripping water will keep the water in the pipe from freezing.
Open kitchen base cabinet and let room air circulate.
Open kitchen base cabinet and place a small portable heater near or in it to heat the pipes
Wrap the problem pipe with electrical heat tape.
Insulate the problem pipes with foam insulation wrap, especially those that run through unheated spaces.
Temper the currently unheated crawlspace by placing a heater in the crawlspace. You just need to elevate the crawlspace temperature to modestly above freezing, about 2°C.

Source: Bob Formisano at www.about.com

Underfloor Heating

2010-11-30T16:35:00.004Z

Looking for new ways to heat your home? Underfloor heating (UFH) could be the solution for you. As well as an absolute treat for you feet during the cold winter mornings, it's a great space-saver as well as an energy-efficient way to warm up your household.

There are plenty of benefits of underfloor heating:

There are no radiators to spoil the clean lines of a room, and space can be saved by freeing up a wall that would otherwise need to be dedicated to a radiator.
Underfloor heating is also an extremely efficient way to warm a room, and gives a more pleasant heat than radiators, stoves or traditional solid-fuel fires. Heat is emited in a very gentle way. There are no cold spots and, as most of the heat is concentrated in the lower part of the room, very little heat is wasted.

TYPES OF UNDERFLOOR HEATING

1. Wet System - use warm water from the central heating system. The water is pumped through plastic pipes that are laid on to a sub floor, before the new final surface is installed. Underfloor heating of this type also reduces water-heating costs as it uses water at a lower temperature than standard radiators (about 40°C to 65°C to give a floor temperature of between 23°C and 32°C).

2. Wire System - Electric systems feature cables which are attached to open-weave mesh mats. There are, however, newer types where the elements are embedded into a continuous roll. The mats or rolls are spread out on the floor, connected together and are then linked up to the thermostat and mains power supply.

In general, whilst electric systems are cheaper to install, and cause less disruption to existing floor structure, they are more expensive to run than wet systems, which are more cost efficient.

WHERE?

Underfloor heating is mostly used in ground-floor rooms but, in reality, there is a system to suit any type of floor construction.

Wet systems are most easily installed where it's possible to take up floors or where new floors are being constructed, so is likely to suit new extensions, conservatories and new open-plan kitchen-living areas.

Electric underfloor heating is likely to be more suitable for existing rooms as the electrical mesh system is flatter than a wet system so there is less need for floor heights to be altered to accommodate it. There are even electrical mat systems available that can be used under rugs on existing hard floors. On balance, it's easier to add electric systems to upper-floor rooms.

HOW TO INSTALL?

For your underfloor heating to be most cost and energy efficient, your property needs to be adequately insulated. To prevent heat loss, and to ensure that the heat is directed upwards, there needs to be room for insulation to be installed beneath the system.

With wet systems, make sure you have a space for the controls to be situated (a cupboard will do). Like a radiator, each room heated with UFH has its own valve, but they can all be sited in one spot, along with the timer controls. Most of the plastic water pipes installed in today's systems are continuous, so there is no danger of leaks as there are no joints - and the system is generally considered to be maintenance-free.

Whilst a condensing boiler will offer the greatest potential savings on running costs, any boiler can be used with UFH, as long as it has a sufficient capacity.

The firm fitting the underfloor heating will plan the installation for you. If you plan to add a wet UFH system to an existing room, you will need to seek professional advice. Necessary calculations include the desired temperatures, the ceiling height, the potential heat loss and the type of flooring required.

CARPET

UFH can be used with almost all types of flooring, even carpet, providing that the carpet and underlay have a thermal resistance of less than 2.5 tog. Indications show that, for the majority of carpet styles, the thermal resistance will be less than 1 tog.

STONE, CERAMIC, SLATE & TERRACOTA

As these flooring materials have become more fashionable, there has been an increase in the number of homes using UFH. Heat-up time depends on the thickness of the tiles. Thick flagstones will take longer to reach optimum temperature, but once this is reached there's no difference in heat quality between thick or thinner floor surfaces.

TIMBER

UFH is suitable for use with many types of timber flooring, but most installers stipulate that the timber be specifically recommended for UFH use. The flooring should have a top temperature restriction (usually 27°C) and an expansion gap needs to be left around the edges (this is easily hidden by a skirting board or trim). Always liaise with the flooring supplier and heating installer before making your purchase. Many suppliers will recommend a specific brand of electric UFH and it's a good idea to listen to their advice.

VINYL & LAMINATES

UFH can be used with high-quality vinyls and laminates. However, not all laminates or vinyls are compatible with UFH, so it's a good idea to check with the flooring manufacturer or the heating installer before committing. Many suppliers have developed their own UFH systems, or have one or two that they recommend.

Source: www.housetohome.co.uk

Don't Be a Victim of a Cowboy Builder

2010-11-24T16:17:00.003Z

Cowboy builders are the bane of the construction industry. There are, on average, at least 100,000 complaints every year about them. They ruin things for perfectly reputable builders, and for all the talk about them, they’re in the minority – it just happens to be a minority that gets a lot of publicity.

Cowboy builders are simply rogue traders, of course, often with little or no knowledge of building, so you end up with a botched job – that’s if it’s finished at all.

PROTECT YOURSELF

The best thing is to learn to spot the cowboy builders early, so you can turn them away – it saves a lot of trouble later. The first tip-off is if they asked to be paid in cash, or cash-in-hand all with a promise on no VAT to be paid. No legitimate business will work off the books like that.

If they say a contract isn’t necessary, watch out – it’s vital in a business transaction like this, and without it, your legal position is nowhere near as strong. Most rogue builders don’t carry insurance, either, which again could work to your detriment if an accident occurred.

Are they willing to provide a written estimate and costings for the job, as well as a time frame for each stage of the work? A proper tradesman would, quite gladly. Where they do offer a quote, it could be unusually low, and they might offer to begin work immediately.

Do they have references? Do they have premises and a landline number, or simply a van and a mobile?

All of the above should raise red flags. You can protect yourself by having everything in writing and ask for a guarantee. Check references, talk to the people who’ve had the work done, and look at the work if possible. Ask your family and your friends for recommendations. Get several estimates and remember, cheapest isn’t always a savings.

It’s a help, too, if the builders and members of some trade group – although check that as well, since cowboy building firms have been known to fake membership. Finally, never pay in cash, and certainly never upfront – you should only pay for work that’s been completed.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU'RE A VICTIM OF A COWBOY BUILDER?

Sometimes, though, the cowboys do win, and the building work is a shambles. What should have been wonderful construction work is a mess, and the builders have moved on. What can you do?

What they’ve done constitutes fraud, so you should complain to the police, giving them as much information on the builder as possible. Also complain to Trading Standards, which takes a very harsh view of rogue traders.

If you can track down the cowboy builder and he refuses to refund your money, take him to court. In the event of a small job, small claims court will likely suffice, and won’t cost you much. In the event of a big job, though, you will be looking at some hefty legal bills.Either way, it’s a lot of problems, and you still need to employ a proper builder to do the work correctly. The best solution, always, is to take the time and find someone who’ll do it right the first time.

Source: www.consumerrightsexpert.co.uk

10 World Weirdest Buildings

2010-11-16T18:10:00.011Z

10 really exciting and inspiring buildings for you to enjoy :)

THE URBAN CACTUS (Rotterdam, Netherlands)

Designer: UCX Architects

THE CROOKED HOUSE (Sopot, Poland)

Designer: Szotynscy & Zaleski

FOREST SPIRAL (Darmstadt, Germany)

Designer: Friedensreich Hundertwasser

THE NATIONAL LIBRARY (Minsk, Belarus)

Designer: Mihail Vinogradov & Viktor Kramarenko

GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM (Bilbao, Spain)

Designer: Frank Gehry

AIR FORCE ACADEMY CHAPEL (Colorado, United States)

Designer: Walter A. Netsch Jr.

ATOMIUM (Brussels, Belgium)

Designer: Andre Waterkeyn

LA PEDRERA (Barcelona, Spain)

Designer: Antonio Gaudi

NATIONAL STADIUM (Beijing, China)

Designer: Herzog & de Meuron

LOTUS TEMPLE (Delhi, India)

Designer: Fariborz Sahba

All you need to know about windows.

2010-11-09T15:57:00.004Z

SHAPES OF WINDOWS

Many homes have only the basic types of windows - meaning square and boring. Updated windows can make a nondescript home into one that shines with curb appeal. But you need to know what is available (and what it’s called) when talking to your window professional. Here are some terms you should know.

FIXED

This type of window cannot be opened. It is usually inexpensive and suitable for higher windows that won’t be opened anyway.

DOUBLE HUNG

One of the most common windows and a great window for a period home. The window consists of two sashes that move up and down. Only half of the window can be open at one time.

CASEMENT

Another common window, casement windows are hinged vertically to swing in and out like a door and operated with a crank.

AWNING

Awning windows are similar to casement windows but are hinged horizontally.

JALOUSIE

Jalousie windows are horizontally placed narrow strips of glass, lowered by crank. Out of favor today, they were very popular in the mid-century.

SLIDING

Sliding windows move on top and bottom tracks. They are very common and can be inexpensive.

PALADIAN

A paladian window consists of group of three windows with an arch over the center. These windows have become very popular in the last decade. They provide visual interest and drama to a home.

PICTURE

Picture windows are especially popular in ranch-style homes. They are large fixed windows flanked by 2 casements or double-hung windows.

CLERESTORY

Clerestory windows were especially popular in Craftsman homes. They consist of a strip of small horizontal panes set high on a wall.

ELLIPTICAL OR ARCHED

Elliptical or arched windows often placed above double hung or fixed windows in today’s new homes.

BAY

A bay window is a window space projecting outward from the main walls of a building and forming a bay in a room, either square or polygonal in plan.

TYPES OF FRAMES AND SASHES

Window frames and sashes can be manufactured from a variety of materials – aluminum, fiberglass, vinyl (PVC), wood, or a combination of these materials -, which has implications in the thermal efficiency, durability, environmental impact and costs of the windows.

ALUMINUM

Aluminum windows are durable and offer low maintenance and low costs. But they aren't efficient in cold climates. Only aluminum frames with thermal breaks (that is, with their external and internal frames separated by a good insulating material) can rate high, and constitute a good option in moderate climates.

FIBERGLASS

Fiberglass frames and sashes are very energy efficient, and offer good structural strength, high durability and minimal or no maintenance costs. Hollow sections of the frame and sash can be filled with foam insulation to increase the energy efficiency of the window.

VINYL

Extruded vinyl frames (PVC) are good or even excellent in terms of energy efficiency, and demand low or no maintenance costs; vinyl frames can also be filled with foam insulation to provide a better energy efficiency. Thermally welded corners also improve the performance of vinyl frames and sashes, preventing air and water leakage.

WOOD

Solid wood frames have a good insulating value, and a good structural strength. The disadvantage? The impact of the weather on them… and their possible short durability and high maintenance costs. High performing wood frames and sashes demand factory-applied cladding and finishes, and well-sealed corners and gaskets. They tend to be expensive.

COMPOSITE

Some window frames and sashes combine two or more materials (aluminum, fiberglass, wood…) in order to get the best features of each material. But a composite nature doesn’t necessarily mean high-efficiency. The final performance depends on multiple manufacturing details.

SELECTING FRAMES AND SASHES

When choosing window (or skylights or patio doors...) frames and sashes, you may check or inquire about:

Tight-fitting sealed joints (they prevent air and water leakage)
In the case of aluminum (and other materials requiring thermal breaks), ensure that the exterior and interior surfaces of the frame are separated by an adequate insulating material.
In the case of large windows (skylights and patio doors) requiring additional reinforcement, inquire about the impact of the reinforcement material on the thermal performance
the sealing methods used involving the interface between the glass unit and the sash (to prevent water from entering)
insulated frames: the hollow sections of the frame and sash should be filled with foam insulation to increase the energy efficiency of the window.
warm edge spaces: they are particularly important to reduce thermal bridging at the edges of the window

Source: www.about.com
www.house-energy.com

Storage Space in Living Room

2010-11-03T17:13:00.003Z

If you live in a small space, every square inch counts. You can utilize a lot of unused space in the living room, if you’re creative and savvy. There are several decorating strategies you can use on your own space to multiply your existing storage space. Here’s how to create more storage space in a living room.

1. Purchase multi functional pieces of furniture. Don’t use a traditional coffee table. Instead, use a trunk or an ottoman that can double as storage space, additional seating or a table. Do the same for side or end tables. Many furniture designers are aware of the need for more practical storage space so they utilize all available space. Seating of surfaces can be removed to reveal storage space for magazines, CD’s, videos and even blankets.

2. If you are using a futon in the living room as a couch, place decorative baskets under it to store magazines, videos and game consoles.

3. If you have a bay window, have seating and storage constructed. Not only will it provide a lovely design element to your room, but it will also give you a lot of storage space that is discreet but accessible.

4. If you don’t have a wide space, think vertically. Build shelving on the walls to utilize the unused space. You can even have cabinetry built in to reach the ceiling for a total storage solution. So the wall doesn’t look to heavy, have some panels as open shelving and put doors on the rest.

5. Use your walls. Hang shelving behind the sofa and place your knick knacks there. It will provide a point of interest in the room but also give you space to display some possessions. Don’t just use a piece of wood and L brackets. Find something decorative in the home store and hang that. Some hanging shelves are constructed so creatively such that they actually look like a piece of sculpture or artwork. You can also upgrade your traditional tube TV to a plasma TV and hang it on the wall to clear the space and enable you to use the cabinet for storage instead of putting your entertainment system on it.

6. Hang shelving on the space above the door and windows. This is unused space otherwise. You can put books and other decorative things on the shelf.

7. Declutter your space. No matter how much storage space you have, it will never be enough if you don’t get rid of things. There’s no need to hold on to your magazine subscriptions from ten years ago. If you live in a small space, you have to be vigilant about what you keep in your home. Every time you bring something in, something has to go out. This is the only way to control the clutter and volume of your possessions.

Source: www.howtodothings.com

A Quick Guide to...Home Insulation

2010-10-26T14:02:00.005+01:00

Is your home leaking money? Without proper insulation, as much as 50% of your heating could be disappearing straight through your walls and roof. But it's easy to put right. For instance, if every UK household who could, fitted loft insulation to a thickness of 270mm, it would save enough energy to heat 750,000 homes for a year!

Modern, energy-efficient insulation products can reduce an average household heating bill by as much as £180 - £220 per year.

LOFT INSULATION

Most homes have at least some insulation in the loft – but is it working as well as it should? Insulation is one of the most important things you can do to make your home more energy efficient. To be effective, standard loft insulation needs to be at least 270mm (10 inches) thick. Plus it keeps your home warm in the winter and cooler in the summer. If your loft insulation is quite old, or if you've compressed it under boarding, that may well make it less effective. However, there is a variety of modern materials, and innovative and user-friendly products to choose from.

BOARDED LOFTS

More and more people are boarding over their lofts – either for storage or to convert them into extra living space. But, if your joists are less than 270mm deep (which most are), boarding them over will compress any existing insulation, making it less effective. One solution is to use a multi-foil insulating product. This has a silver finish, which reflects radiant heat. Although more expensive than conventional insulation, it's far more efficient, generating the same level of insulation in less space.

SPACE BOARD INSULATION

Space Board enables boarded lofts to provide the same energy savings as lofts insulated with glass wool. Using two layers of Space Board over existing loft boards will create space and the required insulation level (more at www.space-insulation.com)

THERMA WRAP

ThermaWrap's Top-up Quilt is a very flexible, easy-to-fit, multi-layer insulation that effectively deals with all forms of heat loss. Although it is just 15mm thick, it is equivalent to 100mm of glass wool. ThermaWrap's SuperQuilt is an easy-fit multi-foil pitch roof insulation which is lightweight, and flexible. Ideal for loft conversions it is equivalent to 270mm of glass wool in a single layer (find out more at www.thermawrap.co.uk)

CHOOSING THE RIGHT INSULATION

ECO WOOL INSULATION

Eco-Wool insulation is made from 85% recycled plastic bottles and is totally itch free. It is ideal for topping up existing insulation.

NATURAL SHEEP INSULATION

Natural sheep insulation is made using wool from British sheep and takes very little energy to manufacture. It is naturally breathable and able to absorb as well as release moisture - keeping your house warm in the winter can cool in the summer. It is non irritant, clean and easy to use.

NATURAL HEMP INSULATION

Naturally breathable absorbs and releases moisture improving insulation properties it is ideal for topping up insulation the natural way.

SPACE BLANKET

Ideal for topping up existing loft insulation. Space Blanket is a revolutionary product, designed specifically for topping up existing loft insulation. It's available in 150mm and 200mm thicknesses, which you can simply lay over your existing insulation to bring it up to an effective thickness. Space Blanket is encapsulated, making it easy and quick to lay: most lofts can be completed in around an hour. As it's incapsulated it is virtually itch free making it clean and easy to lay (learn more at www.knaufinsulation.co.uk)

RAFTER ROLL ROOF INSULATION

If you're converting your loft into living space, the insulation needs to move to rafter level. A quick way to do this is by fitting two layers of Rafter Roll 32 85mm wool between the rafters to give 170mm of insulation – then placing a vapour membrane and plasterboard over the top. Alternatively, if you are not converting your loft but simply wish to make it warmer you can use a single layer of Rafter Roll.

JABLITE FLOORING

When insulating solid or floating floors, Jabfloor is a versatile solution. It's an expanded polystyrene sheet, in a variety of thicknesses, that can be placed either between or below the joists or suspended timber floor (more info at www.jablite.co.uk)

FILLING THE GAPS

HOW IT WORKS?

In most properties, the outer walls consist of two layers, with a gap (or 'cavity') between them. Cavity wall insulation fills that gap - acting like a 'thermos' flask to keep the air in your home naturally warm or cool. In new-build properties or extensions, the easiest way to fit cavity wall insulation is with preformed slabs (like the Crown DriTherm Cavity Slab or Polystyrene Cavity Slab), which fit snugly into the gap between the layers of the outer wall. In existing properties, small holes are drilled in the outer wall, allowing insulation to be injected at high pressures, so that it expands to fill the gap.

CAVITY SLABS

As well as keeping your home insulated for temperature cavity slabs provide a layer of sound-proofing and act as a fire retardant.

CAVITY WALL INSULATION

Around six million homes in the UK and Republic of Ireland have cavity wall insulation. It's quick, clean and comparatively inexpensive - and it can save you around £90 a year on your heating bills.

Source: www.diy.com

How to...Lay Laminate Flooring

2010-10-18T16:23:00.002+01:00

This guide will help you lay your chosen laminate flooring, to select the appropriate underlay and show you how to lay it. This is a fairly demanding project and some moderate DIY skills are needed. Depending on the area of your room, the whole job should be easily possible in less than a day. Always make sure you read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions when laying your laminate flooring.

WHERE TO FIT LAMINATE FLOORING?

These floors are ideal for living areas and hallways. Certain ranges are suitable for bathrooms or kitchens, so always check advice given on the packaging. The boards are protected with a special resin coating finish but can be scratched by grit. Always fit a sturdy doormat at entrances and exits of all external doorways and protect furniture with furniture felt pads. Always brush up loose grit.

MEASURING UP

Measure the width of your room at the widest points and then measure the length. Multiply them together to give you the area of your room in m². You should then add 10% for wastage.
e.g. width 5m x length 4m = 20m² + 10% = 22m² of laminate flooring.

To work out how many packs you need, check the pack size, e.g. 1.243m², and divide your room size by that number. e.g. 22m² divided by 1.243 = 17.6 packs. Round this up to 18 packs.

TOOLS & MATERIALS REQUIRED

Masking tape
Claw hammer
Combination square
Jigsaw
Tape measure
Expansion strips
Underlay
Laminate threshold strip
Scotia
Craft knife
Spirit level
Laminate floor fitting kit
Saw
Mallet
Knee pads

CHOOSING THE RIGHT FLOORING

Engineered, ‘veneered’ or ‘real wood top layer’ flooring is made up of softwood or man-made board with a thin layer of solid timber bonded to the surface. Laminate flooring is typically man-made board with a protected film.

Both types of flooring have interlocking profiles along the edges that are pushed together to give a smooth surface. Some are glued and some use a dry ‘click together’ system allowing slight movement if there’s a change in temperature or humidity. In places that get a lot of wear, laminate boards can’t be sanded if they get scratched, whereas the best engineered boards can be sanded and relacquered up to three times.

Laminate and engineered boards are more stable than solid timber. Central heating has little effect on them, so joints stay tightly closed.

PREPARING THE SUB-FLOOR

Laminate flooring can be laid on any smooth, flat sub-floor as long as it is dry, firm and level. Make sure floorboards are firmly screwed down and flatten all nails with a hammer. If you have a newly laid concrete floor it must be completely dry. If you have an old, uneven concrete floor use a self-levelling compound. This is a free flowing, self-smoothing material which dries flat and level. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Before fitting any boards over concrete always put down a damp-proof membrane (DPM) to stop moisture coming through.

PUTTING DOWN AN UNDERLAY

Polyfoam underlay

This is the thinnest type of underlay used under laminate flooring and is good for any firm, dry and level sub-floor such as chipboard, plywood or hardboard.
Prepare the floor and if necessary lay a combined underlay & DPM. Lay the underlay over the entire floor area and trim to fit, cutting a 16 mm gap around pipes.
Lay lengths side-by-side and secure them with masking tape.

Combined underlay

The advantage of combined underlay is that, whatever the sub-floor, you only have to fit one layer rather than two.
It is thicker than polyfoam underlay so will absorb very slight irregularities in the floor, and it provides good sound insulation.
Make sure you tape the joints to keep the product damp proof.

Wood fibre boards

This is the thickest of the underlays and should be used if you have floorboards or a slightly uneven sub-floor. It also gives good heat and sound insulation.
Always acclimatise the boards in the room for 24 hours before laying to let them expand or contract according to the conditions. Prepare the floor and if necessary lay a DPM.
Lay the boards, staggering the joints and leaving a 10mm expansion gap around the edge of the room and 5mm between boards.

TIP: Insert cork expansion strips in all perimeter gaps before finishing the edge of the room with skirting or beading to help control the natural movement of the boards

PLANNING THE DIRECTION OF BOARDS

You should lay your boards in the same direction as the longest straight wall. However, if you have matching flooring in a next door room, it’s probably best to lay them in the same direction regardless. In a square room, lay the boards in the direction of incoming light.

BEFORE YOU START

Remove the skirting boards so that they can be re-fitted over the top of the new floor. If this isn’t possible, fit the new floor and use thin timber mouldings (sometimes called scotia or quadrant) to hide the edges . Vacuum the floor to remove any grit or dirt.

LAYING THE FLOORING

Start in a corner and lay the first row of boards along the longest straight wall - the tongue side of the board should face the wall. Place plastic spacers between the board and the wall at 60cm intervals. Make sure the spacers are wide enough to form the manufacturer’s recommended expansion gap all around the edge of the floor (usually 12mm).

The ends of the boards will be tongue and groove. Join them by using adhesive on the top of the tongue locking mechanism - note that many boards use purely click systems and don’t need adhesive. You will probably need to cut the last board of the row to fit it in. Mark it with a try square and saw it with the finished surface facing up.

Begin the second row, starting with the off-cut from the first row. Always stagger the end joints of adjacent rows by at least 30cm. Continue across the room, pushing the completed rows firmly together and adding more plastic spacers along the two side walls as you go. Fit each board together by gently tapping the edge block against the grooved side of each board, using a mallet or hammer (check your fitting instructions to see if this method is applicable).

GOING AROUND PIPES

If you need to go around any pipes, mark the position of the pipe on the board to be laid. Drill a hole about 16mm larger in diameter than the pipe and make two angled saw cuts from the board edge to the sides of the hole. Fit the board and carefully glue the small off-cut wedge behind the pipe. Make sure there is an expansion gap around the pipe.

FITTING AROUND ARCHITRAVE

Cutting boards to fit around architraves (the moulding around a door or cupboards) while leaving an expansion gap can be very tricky. nstead, saw out a piece from the bottom of the architrave. This will need to be cut 15mm into the architrave and the height will be determined by the thickness of the board, plus the underlay, plus approximately 2mm extra to allow freedom of movement for the flooring when laid. Then just slot your boards under the bottom of the architrave.

FINISHING OFF

When you have finished laying the boards, remove the spacers, insert cork expansion strips and replace the skirting board over the new boards. Alternatively, fix a scotia or quadrant moulding over the expansion gap around the perimeters of the room. Pin the moulding to the skirting board and paint or varnish as required.

Fit a metal or wooden threshold over the edge of the flooring in all the doorways.

Source: www.homebase.co.uk

All about Solar Water Heating

2010-10-14T16:31:00.004+01:00

Solar water heating systems use free heat from the sun to warm domestic hot water. A conventional boiler or immersion heater is then used to make the water hotter, or to provide hot water when solar energy is unavailable.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

Solar water heating systems use solar panels, called collectors, fitted to your roof. These collect heat from the sun and use it to warm water which is stored in a hot water cylinder.

There are two types of solar water heating panels, they are evacuated tubes and flat plate collectors. Flat plates collectors can be fixed on the roof tiles or integrated into the roof.

A boiler or immersion heater can be used as a back up to heat the water further to reach the temperature set by the cylinders thermostat when the solar water heating system does not reach that temperature. (The cylinder thermostat should be set at 60 degrees centigrade.)

Larger solar panels can also provide energy to heat your home as well - though usually only in the summer months when home heating is unnecessary.

THE BENEFITS

1. Hot water throughout the year - the system works all year round, though you'll need to heat the water further with a boiler or immersion heater during the winter months.

2. Cut your bills - sunlight is free, so once you've paid for the initial installation your hot water costs will be reduced.

3. Cut your carbon footprint - solar hot water is a green, renewable heating system and can reduce your carbon dioxide emissions

IS IT SUITABLE FOR MY HOME?

To tell if solar water heating is right for you, there are a few key questions to consider:

1. Do you have a sunny place to put solar panels?

You'll need around 5 square metres of roof space which faces east to west through south and receives direct sunlight for the main part of the day. Alternatively, if you do not have a south facing roof and if you have space, you could install two panels, one facing east and one facing west - but this will make installation more costly. The panels don't always have to be mounted on a roof, they can be fixed to a frame on flat roofs.

2. Do you have space for a larger, or an extra, hot water cylinder?

If a dedicated solar cylinder is not already installed then you will need to replace the existing cylinder, or add a dedicated cylinder with a solar heating coil.

3. Is your current boiler compatible with solar water heating?

Most conventional boiler and hot water cylinder systems are compatible with solar water heating. If your boiler is a combination boiler (combi) and you don't currently have a hot water tank then a solar hot water system may not be compatible.

4. Do you need planning permission?

In England most solar water heating systems don't need planning permission, but it is always best to consult your local planning office if you live in a Listed Building, or a building in Conservation Area or World Heritage Site. If you live in Wales, Scotland or Northern Ireland you will need to consult your local authority.

COSTS

Cost for a typical solar water heating system is around £4,800 (inc VAT at 5%). Maintenance costs are very low. Most solar water heating systems come with a 5-10 year warranty and require little maintenance. You should take a look at your panels every year and have them checked more thoroughly by an accredited installer every 3-5 years, or as specified by your installer.

SAVINGS

Moderate - a solar water heating system can reduce your water heating bill by between £50 and £85 per year. It will also save up to 570kg of CO2 emissions, depending on what fuel you will be replacing.

Source: Energy Saving Trust

Mirrors in decor

2010-10-10T16:23:00.003+01:00

Using mirrors to create a sense of more space is a trick of interior designing and their use in decorating is making a big comeback. Mirrors help to give a sense of greater space by reflecting light, thus brightening a room and the reflection of the room also fools the eye into feeling there is a greater amount of space than in reality.

USE A MIRROR TO REFLECT LIGHT

Dark rooms often give a sense of less space and crowding in. Such rooms can benefit from good positioning of a mirror or series of mirrors. There are several ways to do this:

Place a mirror on the wall that is opposite to the window. This will reflect incoming light and help to brighten the room.
Use a large, full-length mirror in entrance ways. Instantly this gives a person entering a sense of increased space. This works most effectively when the mirror is placed on a wall or walls that the eye looks at first.
Place mirrors on each side of the window reveal. This is the space between the inside wall and the window itself. The pieces of mirror placed this way should be professionally cut to fit.

COVER A WALL WITH MIRRORS

If you have a small space, such as a bedroom or dining room, that feels really squashed, a mirror wall can open it up and create a sense of flow and increased area. A bed or dining/other table placed right next to a mirrored wall instantly appears a lot larger and will feel that the space is, in fact, doubled. Mirrored placemats on a dining table can add additional reflective effect but be careful not to overdo it.

PLACE MIRRORS ALONGSIDE FIREPLACES

This will help to give more sense in a part of the room that often can feel cramped and dark. A mirrored screen next to a fireplace can reflect the glow and flames when it works, helping to create a cheerful glow and spaciousness at nighttime.

LINE A CEILING WITH WINDOWS

Dark entrance ways, back porch areas and bathroom spaces can be instantly revived by making the entire ceiling mirrored. When the light is turned on, the mirror helps to spread the light further and brighten the otherwise dull room. This is especially useful for windowless toilet rooms and pantries, as it gives the illusion of a skylight.

PLACE BRIGHT LIGHT IN FRONT OF A MIRROR

In a room lacking a window, this little trick will help to create the illusion of light from a window space. Add a shelf under a mirror hung about eye level on the wall. Place a lamp (electric or fuel-burning) in front of this mirror. Turn the lamp on whenever the room is used and the light will be diffused through the room by the mirror.

MIRROR A LONG WALL IN A SKINNY SPACE

It will double the visual width of the room. This is a great trick for halls, entryways, narrow dining rooms, excercise rooms and master bedrooms

USE MIRROR AS A TRAY

Use a framed mirror to serve as a tray that corrals perfumes, cosmetics and jewelry on a dresser top or bathroom counter. Hot-glue plastic buttons on the bottom of the tray (the back of the mirror) to serve as nondamaging gliders.

MIRROR THE BACKSPLASH IN KITCHEN

It will reflect light where you're preparing food, and it's a breeze to wipe clean.

MAKE A SMALL GARDEN SEEM LARGER

Mirrors can also be used to create extra garden space for small gardens and patio areas. For gardens hemmed in by walls, adding mirrors can remove the sense of being squashed in and can enliven the beauty of the plants and ornaments you have placed in your small garden space. Just be sure to use mirror that is weatherproof when using it outdoors.

TIPS & WARNINGS

The larger the mirror, the more light reflected.
Be creative with your use of mirrors; don't just hang it over the mantelpiece. Choose new places that are not traditionally thought of as areas for a mirror and challenge the onlooker to a new view of the world.
Place a mirror above a mantel with special care, because it may reflect only the uninteresting tops of furniture or blank wall space within the room. Angle it down - by putting a little slack in the hanging wire - so it reflects something more attractive.
Situate mirrors so they don't cause glare. Mirrors can be problematic if they're placed across from a window with a western or southern exposure.

Sources: www.ehow.com
www.wikihow.com

How to...Wallpaper

2010-10-05T18:48:00.005+01:00

Wallpaper is back... in natural tones and an amazing selection of textures. Papering does take a little more time and patience than paint but the results are well worth the effort. If you're worried about getting it right, find out how to wallpaper in this step-by-step guide.

TIME REQUIRED :

Weekend job for a medium/large room

COST :

From around £5 for 10 metres of wallpaper, plus £5 for enough wallpaper adhesive for 12 rolls of wallpaper

YOU WILL NEED :

Pasting table, bucket, stepladder, paste, including plumb line, paste brush, edge roller, stripping knife, smoothing brush, edge trimming roller, wallpaper scissors, utility knife, tape measure and pencil, broom (to go between two chairs to hold pasted paper), sponge, bulldog clips, long batten or straight-edge.

1. Cut enough lengths of paper to complete the first wall, allowing 100mm for trimming. Push a roll of paper against the corner of the wall and mark about 25mm in from the end. Hold the plumb line at ceiling height so that it passes through the pencil mark and make several more marks along the line, joining them up with the batten.

2. Paste the first sheet by spreading some paste into the centre and working the brush in a herringbone pattern - spreading the paste to the edges. Hold the paper against the edge furthest from you and paste up to this edge first. Then pull the paper towards you and paste the nearest edge. Paste two or three pieces of paper at once to allow the paper to absorb some of the paste and become more pliable.

3. Fold the pasted sides inwards so that no paste touches the face side. Hang the folded paper over a broom between two chairs.

4. Lightly press the top of the first length against the wall, with a 50mm overlap. Slide the edge up to the vertical line and use a smoothing brush to get rid of air bubbles. Again, use herringbone strokes from the centre. Trim the top and bottom of the length by creasing the paper into the skirting and ceiling/picture rail with the back of the wallpaper scissors. Cut along the crease.

5. Hang the next length in the same way, butting the edge neatly against the first piece. Make sure the edges are firmly glued down by running a seam roller along the joint. Always sponge off any excess paste with a clean wet sponge or it will dry as a shiny patch.

TIPS & TRICKS

Corners are usually not exactly square. At an internal corner, measure from the last full width roll to the corner and add 15mm. Paste this cut length to the wall and press the small overlap piece around the corner. Overlap this piece with the next length of paper, using a plumb line for accuracy.
For external corners, use the same technique but allow about 25mm overlap. Hang the first length on the new wall so that it is about 12mm from the corner.
Turn off the electrical supply before papering around sockets and switches. Remove the cover plates and fit paper underneath, trim to size and re-fit plates.
Buy all the paper you need in one go and check the batch numbers are the same.
Use bulldog clips to hold the paper on the table as you paste it.
If you haven't papered before, choose a plain paper rather than a complex pattern.
Make a small cross with a craft knife in the centre of any air bubbles under the dry paper. Brush some paste on the underside of the flaps and press down with the seam roller.
Don't mix old and new paste. Mix up enough to cover one wall at a time.
Put half a matchstick into the ends of wall plugs so that you can see where to replace hooks and screws.

By Naomi Cleaver at www.channel4.com

Tips for First Time Home Buyers

2010-09-30T17:43:00.003+01:00

Whether planning a new career or simply hoping to start a new chapter in your life, moving into a new place can be both exciting and stressful.

Follow our tips for first time home buyers.

LOCATION

Remember that one of the most important aspects of a home's value is the area it's in. Research the neighbourhood profile and check for good transport as well as schools. If you're finding property too expensive consider buying a home that needs some work, or look slightly outside your preferred area for a better bargain.

PROPERTY WISHLIST

Before you start looking for a property make a list of everything you want and need in a home. Use this as a base guide when hunting for properties to help focus your search. Many people would choose a garden rather than an extra bedroom, for example.

BUDGET

Before you start looking at properties, calculate how much you can realistically afford. Consider other expenses involved when buying a property, including stamp duty, surveying, conveyancing and local authority searches.

MORTGAGE

Banks are now requiring higher deposits from buyers as the credit crunch has demanded they enforce more stringent lending criteria. Calculate your monthly costs (utilities, credit cards, groceries etc) and subtract that amount from your monthly income; this is roughly what you will have left for mortgage payment.

Consider these rules: the purchase price should be around 2.5 times your joint annual income and your mortgage payment should be less than 28% of your gross monthly income, so compare lenders and deals.

ESTATE AGENTS

A good estate agent can access invaluable market information before the public, knowing the homes just on the market and comparable prices. Ask family and friends for referrals and seek someone who is well connected, understands your needs and has experience with homes in your area and price range.

SEE WHAT'S AVAILABLE

You can search for property online. Check regularly for information such as the address, photos and details, age, square footage, number of bedrooms and bathrooms, taxes and schools districts.

It is also worth looking through the local newspapers for the latest listings in that area.

VIEWING

As viewings do not usually last long take a checklist with you outlining what you should be looking for and what you should be asking. Take a tape measure to ensure your belongings will fit and check the property for damp or any repair work that needs doing.

Ask the agent to provide you with a copy of the HIP (Home Information Pack) which includes energy rating and property information.

MAKING AN OFFER

Don't be afraid to put in an offer lower than the asking price, particularly if the property has been on the market for a while. You can gauge how fair an asking price is by comparing with recent sales in the area or purchasing a property valuation report for an instant valuation. Both can be good tools for negotiation.

THE BUYING PROCESS

Once your offer has been accepted, the legal and financial legwork begins. You need to:

Complete your mortgage application with your lender, who will check your credit and finances before granting approval
Instruct a solicitor to manage the legal side of buying the property
Arrange for a survey on the property to check its structure
Pay for other costs including stamp duty, local authority searches and Land Registry costs
Sign and exchange contracts

You can pull out of the sale at any time before exchange.

MOVING

Once contracts have been exchanged, start planning your move. Find local removal companies, hire vans and arrange storage if needed.

Source: www.upmystreet.com

10 Must Have Buys for Every Household

2010-09-27T17:30:00.011+01:00

'A To Z' Bookends Set featuring capital 'A' and capital 'Z' book ends. These are a lovely addition to any book shelf, neutral white will suit any interior. Available at www. stylishlife.co.uk
Gourmet by Sensio Home Triple Buffet Server and Warming Tray - including 300 Watt warming tray and 3 covered 2.4 L serving containers with transparent lids. Variable temperature control with 3 setting as well as heat indicator lights and cool touch handles. Available at Homebase stores or www.homebase.co.uk
Folding Double Canvas Linen Bin. Inculdes two polycotton removable bags with hangers. It will save you a lot of effort when doing laundry. Available in Homebase stores or at www.homebase.co.uk
Horizontal cable trunking - collects your electric and computer cables together; makes it easier to keep your work area tidy. Available in Ikea or at www.ikea.com
Pullout Ironing Board - looks like a drawer when closed. Just pull it out when needed. Ideal for kitchens with limited space. Available in B&Q stores or at www.diy.com
Grundtal cutlery stand - can be hung on Grundtal rail or directly on the wall. Saves space on the worktop. Ideal for storage of cutlery, spices, pens etc .Also suitable for use in high humidity areas. Available in Ikea or at www.ikea.com

Willow underbed storage - a traditional under-bed storage box made from natural willow. Perfect for hiding away unwanted clutter. Available in Laura Ashley stores.
Room Divider - Solid wood, a hardwearing natural material. Foldable - saves space when not in use. Available in Ikea or at www.ikea.com
Dyson Air Multiplier 12 Inch Desk Fan Silver/Iron. The Dyson Air Multiplier fan has no blades instead it uses patented technology to multiply air 15 times, expelling 27 litres of cool, smooth and uninterrupted air every second. The fan is quickly wiped clean with a cloth and does not gather dust like traditional fans. The Dyson Air Multiplier fan has an energy-efficient motor at its base, meaning it has a low centre of gravity which makes it stable. The fan adjusts easily with a touch of a hand,it pivots on its low centre of gravity and stays put. It uses an energy-efficient brushless motor, means air speed can be precisely adjusted up or down. The dimmer-switch control allows people to pick their perfect airflow. Available at www.heals.co.uk
Luxury Bathtub Caddy in chrome. Caddy features a candleholder, bookstand & 2 x glass holders. Now you can relax, read and celebrate in style without getting out of the bath. Available at www.stylishlife.co.uk

Quick Home Fixes and Upgrades

2010-09-22T17:48:00.005+01:00

Some weekend projects are daunting, but tackle any one of these easy tasks and you'll have made a difference at home with time left over for football.

QUIET RATTLING DOORS

When latched interior doors rattle, it's usually because of a poor fit between the lock set, strike plate and doorstop molding. Silence the noise by bending out the strike plate's tab, which rests against the latch when the door is closed. The adjustment holds the door tightly against the doorstop molding and ends the rattling. Try using a slotted screwdriver to pry out the tab in the doorjamb. But it's usually easier to unscrew the strike plate, bend the tab with pliers and reinstall the plate. You may have to bend the tab two or three times to get an exact fit.

SILENCE SQUEAKY HINGES

There are few sounds as irritating as a squeaky door hinge. Fortunately, silence can be yours in a matter of minutes. First, remove one of the hinge pins with a hammer and a small screwdriver or nail set, then buff it smooth with 120-grit sandpaper. Be sure to sand off all rust, dried paint and caked-on gunk. Next, spray the pin with a light coating of silicone lubricant. Tap the newly buffed pin back into place and repeat for the remaining hinge pins.

HANG PICTURES PERFECTLY

Tired of straightening picture frames that hang askew? Permanently place framed paintings or mirrors with a 12-pack of 1/2-in.-dia stick-on vinyl bumpers. Affix the bumpers to the rear lower corners of every frame; the bumpers' soft antiskid rubber keeps the frames from sliding out of position.

NONSKID STEPS

Reduce slips and falls on stairs by placing strips of stick-on abrasive tape on the treads. The rough-surface tape's various widths are perfect for indoor unfinished basement stairs or exterior deck and porch stairs often traversed in the dark. Remember the pool and hot tub, too--don't let a slick step ruin a good soak.

STRAIGHTEN SAGGING SHELVES

It seems every bookcase has a shelf sagging under the weight of too many volumes. A permanently bowed shelf is not only unattractive, it's potentially dangerous: If the shelf fails, it can slough off an avalanche of books. Here's one solution: Support it with a vertical divider cut from 3/4-in. plywood, fit between shelves and oriented like a large book. Make the divider tall enough to prop up the shelf to its original, level height. Conceal the exposed plywood edge with veneer edge banding (or, if you're feeling crafty, a tailored book jacket). To provide proper support for upper shelves and eliminate additional sagging, the lowest divider must rest on the bottom of the bookcase.

FRESHEN THE TOILET SEAT

t's surprising how much a new toilet seat improves the look of a bathroom. To remove the old seat, close the toilet lid and pry open the covers that conceal the mounting bolts' heads. Reach under the bowl flange and get a good grip on the nut below, then loosen it with a few turns of a slotted screwdriver in the bolt above. Repeat for the other bolt. These bolts are usually plastic, but if they're steel--and rusted--cut through them with a hacksaw blade. First, wrap the blade halfway down its length with masking tape to give yourself a safe grip. Protect the porcelain by placing a scrap of cardboard between the toilet and blade, then make the cut. Set the new seat on top of the toilet, flip open the plastic caps and insert the bolts. Reach underneath and thread the nuts onto the bolts. With a hand holding the nut, tighten the bolts from above using the slotted screwdriver. Snap-close the covers to hide the bolt heads.

ENFORCE CORD CONTROL

You don't have to hire a feng shui consultant to know the cords snarled behind your TV bring in bad energy. Rather than buying plastic ties or cord-control kits, make sturdy, reusable twist ties with leftover 4- to 6-in. scraps of 14-gauge copper wire. Use pliers to twist the ends into a bow-tie shape, which shields jagged edges and turns them into easy-to-twist tabs. Finish the installation by mounting a surge protector inconspicuously beneath a desk or behind an entertainment center.

FIX CABINET DOORS

Have a careful look at the corner of the door where the laminate is peeling up. If the core of the door appears to be sound, then the repair is simple. Use a fine-tooth hacksaw blade or a putty knife to spread some moisture-resistant adhesive under the laminate. Then, use masking tape wrapped from the front of the door and around the edge to pull the laminate down. Remove the tape once the adhesive has set, and use a razor-sharp chisel to pare off globs of adhesive that squeeze out from under the laminate while they are still soft. if moisture from cooking or cleaning has caused the core of the doors to crumble or otherwise fail, you're better off replacing those doors, or replacing all the doors in the kitchen. You will find it very difficult to make the laminate adhere properly to a deteriorated substrate.

SUSPEND YOUR STEMWARE

Double a tall cabinet's capacity by suspending glassware from above. Mount a track at the top to store wine glasses and goblets upside-down, or add hooks to hang mugs by their handles.

MOUNT LEDGES FOR BATH STORAGE

Free up several bathroom surfaces with a single tube of silicone adhesive. Use it to mount a soap dish and some corner shelves to a tile or fiberglass shower stall. With the leftover adhesive, mount a toothbrush caddy.

CUSHION THE TOOL COLLECTION

Every kitchen has a junk drawer filled with mismatched tools and accumulated detritus. Turn that catchall into a real tool drawer, with vital small tools ready for a quick repair. To keep the tools rust-free and the drawer tidy, line it with a scrap of carpet sprayed with silicone lubricant. Your pristine array will resemble a surgeon's tray--assuring precision for any project about to go under the knife.

By Joseph Truini and Norman Becker at www. popularmechanics.com

Interior Decor Tips: How to decorate large room?

2010-09-19T14:46:00.013+01:00

In contrast to the smaller living rooms that many of us grew up with, great rooms are perhaps one of the most exciting innovations in modern home design. Their open floor plans not only offer flexibility, but also a more efficient use of space.

They also come with a few interior decorating challenges. Many great rooms, particularly those in larger homes, feel more like an empty warehouse than an alternative to the traditional living room.

While too much space is never a problem, filling that space can be a real challenge. The proportions of the room can be overwhelming and furnishings that look right at home in an apartment or smaller home can look minuscule in a great room.

Some clever decorating tricks can help you warm up these larger rooms.

DIVIDE

Divide the space into smaller areas that will provide communal areas for entertaining, reading and conversation areas for more intimate or private activities, and more utilitarian areas such as an office or craft area, depending on your family's needs.

DEFINE

Define the spaces with area rugs, room dividers or architectural features. Rugs may be the easiest way to define a space. The rugs don't have to match, but they shouldn't appear so small that the room appears fragmented.

UNIFY

You can also define the spaces with color. But I would recommend that you keep a unifying color to prevent the room for appearing too busy or piecemeal. For instance, paint the walls a neutral, but use an area rug, art and accessories in an accent color to define an area of the room.

NEUTRAL

Make sure the most expensive pieces you buy for your room are neutral and durable. You don't want to have to replace them as they wear, or as your color tastes change. That's a budget buster. Replace the more inexpensive items instead.

DEAD ZONE

Avoid "dead" space - areas that are empty with no apparent use. While it is best not to be too cluttered, make use of all your space. Put an occasional chair or tall plant in the area if you can think of nothing else.

DARK AND WARM

Use color to make the space more intimate. Dark, warm colors on the wall can make the difference. You can go large, dark, heavy, and rich in a spacious room without fear - if that's your taste.

TEXTURE

Use lots of texture to take up visual space. Shaggy rugs, pillows and throws appear to have more substance than smoother options. Use this property to your advantage.

LOWER LIGHT

Use darker lampshades that bring the light down to eye level rather than letting it get lost in the large room. The effect is more concentrated light around the seating which appears more intimate.

GOOD CONVERSATION

Plan the areas for comfort and good conversation. Place tables by each seating areas for drinks or other items the guests may want to place there. Place seating areas close enough together to allow for normal conversation. Don't make your guests have to shout across the room to talk to each other.

GO BIG

Use large art and large patterns to match the proportion of the room. When you have a large expanse of wall, you can fill it with a large art piece or a large grouping of smaller pieces. But avoid small pieces hanging alone on the wall. They appear lost in the space. The same principle applies to large patterns. A small pattern on, say, a pillow will be lost and will be read by the eye as a solid. So go bold and graphic, the space can handle it!

Source: www.about.com
Tom Matherson at www.ezinearticles.com

Prepare your home for the autumn.

2010-09-16T11:17:00.004+01:00

Fall is an ideal time to spruce up your home. With kids going back to school and starting a new year, look at autumn as a fresh start for your house, too.

Some once-a-year cleaning projects should be done more often. Windows build up a lot of dirt and grime during the summer. Washing windows inside and out in the spring and in the fall will brighten up your house.

Use these guidelines to clean and prepare your house for winter. Then sit back with a cup of cocoa and enjoy the season.

OUTDOORS

1. Wash your windows inside and especially outside.The summer can be just as harsh on windows as the winter. Don’t wait until spring to give your whole house a brighter outlook by washing your windows.

2. Before you store your patio furniture and children’s outdoor toys, wash them off and cover them in plastic or old bed sheets.

3. Check the caulk, seals and weather stripping around all windows and doors and repair as needed. Wipe down window wells and ledges. Hose and wipe down exterior doors.

4. Drain and store garden hoses. If you have an in-ground sprinkler system, have it professionally blown out and winterized.

5. Check gutters and downspouts and clear out debris, to avoid ice dams.

6. Clean out your garage and hose out all the summer dirt and grime.

7. Install storm windows and doors if you have them. Consider purchasing storm windows if you have older windows that are not made from modern insulated glass.

8. Replace any roof shingles that are missing or damaged

9. Trim trees away from the house. Have dead trees and branches removed by professional tree trimmers, or do it yourself.

10. Check walls and fences for signs of wear, and repair any loose panels or holes. Wobbly paving stones can also be secured, but ensure you choose a dry spell to do any cementing.

INDOORS

1. Have your fireplace and chimney inspected, cleaned and ready for winter use.

2. Change your furnace filters for cleaner air and a more efficient heating system.

3. Fall is a good time to replace batteries in your smoke alarms, carbon monoxide detectors and other home safety devices.

4. Get your beds ready for a cozy winter. Fall is also a good time to do twice-annual mattress turns. Flip your mattress this fall and next spring, turn it end-to-end. Launder or dry clean all bedding you don’t do every week, such as mattress pads, pillows, blankets, bed skirts and bedspreads.

5. Schedule a professional carpet cleaning or rent a carpet cleaner and do it yourself.

6. Clean out your kitchen cupboards and pantry, paying particular attention to baking supplies, pans and equipment that you’ll need for holiday baking.

7. Pull your refrigerator, clothes washer and dryer out from the wall and clean behind them (and retrieve any long lost socks!). Brush dust off of refrigerator coils and use a narrow vacuum hose attachment to clean inside the lint catcher of your dryer.

8. Install or replace weather stripping on all doors and windows. Check for cracks around pipes and electrical outlets entering or exiting the walls.

9. Have your heating system checked by a licensed heating/air-conditioning professional. Most furnace manufacturers recommend at least annual inspections.

10. Check fire extinguishers and charge and replace as necessary.

Sources: www.suite101.com
www.ehow.com

5 Useful DVD's for DIYers

2010-09-10T12:34:00.008+01:00

How to D.I.Y. - The Complete Series

The How to diy dvd range is the essential step by step easy to follow visual aid for any DIY enthusiast. Each reveals handy tips from the trade and gives professional instruction on how to carry out home improvements, repairs and maintenance.

The "How To" DIY Guide To... Tiling

Watch and learn how to expertly tile floors and walls. You will find out how to measure out the work area, use all the tools required, cut around windows and reveals, fix tiling beads, tile around obstacles like sinks or radiators.

Beginners Guide To DIY And Gardening

DVD 1 - Beginners Guide To Gardening - Seasoned gardener John Lewis introduces you to the pleasure of gardening. With tips on basic gardening techniques, this charming DVD is suitable for anyone with a patch of land however small. Chapters include, choosing hand tools, greenhouses, propagation and planting out, sowing vegetable seeds and much more. DVD 2 - Planning A Garden - Hands-on gardener John Lewis shows you how to manage, arrange and develop your garden into a place that gives you pleasure. This informative guide to garden planning includes advice on buying plants from a nursery, soil types, starting out, container plants, edging, feature plants and even finding space for children's toys. DVD 3 - Beginner's Guide To DIY - This practical and easy to follow DVD is designed to give you the basic skills you need to get pleasure from working on your own home. With an emphasis on simplicity and safety, you'll receive friendly advice on all the common do-it-yourself tasks: wiring a plug, hanging wallpaper, putting up a shelf and much more.

Fun To Know - Interior Design

This interactive DVD was made by Interior Design Professionals for the purpose of guiding you to the art of transforming any given space into a beautiful, functional space adequate for your needs and purpose. Through detailed explanations you will learn quickly and easily how to best use the space, how to choose the colours and how to fine tune them.

DIY - Home Security

Home security including door locks, securing windows, security bolts, security lighting, door chains and general security tips.

All DVD's are available at www.amazon.com

Interior Decor Tips: A Quick Guide to Styles

2010-09-07T12:49:00.013+01:00

Studying various interior design styles can be helpful in developing your own style perspective. The approaches to interior design are diverse, but there are some widely accepted methods to interior planning and decor that are consistent enough to be classified as specific design styles.

CONTEMPORARY

Clean-lined is often how contemporary interior design is described, and for good reason. This modern approach focuses first and foremost on function and avoids the excessive ornamentation evident in many other styles.

Black, whites and other neutral tones tend to dominate the contemporary style scene, but you can leverage well-planned, accent features and accessories to provide dramatic punches of color. Large blocks of color placed against a neutral background can firmly establish a contemporary feel.

Sleek lines are very important in this style. Choose clean-lined, modern furnishings and accessories. Avoid furniture with curved legs, for example, which suggests a more traditional style.

Texture is a very important element in contemporary interior design style. It provides the perfect complement to the sleek, smooth surfaces of wood, metal and glass that tend to dominate this setting. A modern vase filled with coarse twigs, for example, can provide visual relief to the smooth surfaces around it. Additionally, a natural fiber, jute area rug with woven blocks of color can add a textural element to a smooth floor.

A contemporary interior works best with complementary architecture. This would be a great style for an urban or industrial loft, but might seem out of place in a Victorian mansion, for example. Think about context.

TRADITIONAL

The shapes in this style setting are typically very graceful. Curving lines are very common. Furniture is often constructed of dark wood and finely crafted detail.

Traditional lighting fixtures of metal, glass or porcelain with elegant shades look wonderful in the traditional home. Look for fixtures with a curvaceous silhouette. If you want to add a touch of glamor to your traditional space, a beautiful chandelier is a good choice.

A wide range of options are available in traditional fabric. Floral prints, tone-on-tone stripes and textural patterns can be found in a variety of materials from damask to cotton. Your choice of fabrics should largely depend on context and the degree of formality or informality you want to project.

Important architectural detail in traditional interior design style includes fine moldings. Adding decorative features, like crown molding and chair railing, is a great way to anchor the style.

Color can be used to help establish the level of formality. Deeper wall colors, like deep red or green hues, suggest a higher level of formality. Lighter colors and neutrals, on the other hand, can infuse a more contemporary feel to the style. Think about how you want the space to function and feel when deciding which direction to go with color. Choose something you love.

Antiques or antique reproductions work well in a traditional setting because they reference the past.

Consider adding a few contemporary styled items for a more up-to-date look. For example, try a contemporary, unframed work of art above the fireplace mantel in a coordinating color scheme to the rest of the room. A more contemporary piece can enliven a traditional space to stunning effect.

ASIAN

The Asian interior design style has largely been influenced by Chinese and Japanese culture. If your life is hectic and you've been wishing for an interior style that promotes serenity, this Oriental approach may be the one for you. The Asian style carries a strong emphasis on peace and order.

Chinese interior design tends to be very graphic and opulent in its expression. Japanese style interior design has more of a minimalist, restrained nature.

Wood and bamboo are the natural choice of materials used with Asian interior design style. Use softer colors like off white, stone, parchment and mellow gray for a Japanese style effect. Use jewel tones of ruby, gold, sapphire and emerald along with ebony (black) if you want to emphasize Chinese style. Wall treatments are typically plain colored in a Japanese styled space. On the other hand, for a Chinese approach try some large, painted panels with elaborate scenes from nature or Chinese cultural history.

Floors look best finished with wood, cork or bamboo products. Ceramic or stone tiling is also a option. Choosing a area rug made of natural materials like sisal and coir works well in an Asian inspired environment.

Consider Japanese style interior design especially if your space is surrounded by contemporary architecture. Its minimalist approach is a perfect compliment.

Inject an oriental feel into your space by incorporating a lacquered wooden screen that displays a flamboyant Chinese design. Or choose a beautiful Shoji screen for a more streamlined Asian atmosphere.

Windows are often left plain in an Asian interior. However, if privacy is a concern, consider a simple roll-up blind of natural material like bamboo, for example.

CLASSICAL

A primary element in classical style is the use of a focal point around which visual balance is achieved. A grand, marble fireplace flanked on either side by matching, gilded light sconces and crowned with an elaborate, gold framed mirror would be good example of classical balance. Imagine if the arrangement were split down the middle, one half of the arrangement would essentially be a copy of the other half.

The color palette common to classical interior design style takes it cue from the empire periods of history where color choices were often inspired by nature. Consider various yellows, blues, greens, browns as well as softer, muted hues like terracottas, grays and pinks. Adding some ebony (black) accenting within a well-planned design scheme can enhance the classical feel.

The use of classical ornamentation can additionally serve to anchor a room in the classical style. Common classical motifs (reoccurring images) include Roman and Greek inspired columns, busts and urns. Obelisks and other Egyptian inspired design elements might also be used.

Fabrics used in classical interior design style tend to be elegant but reserved - quiet strength in a very ordered space. Cotton, canvas and velvet are some common examples. If you want to punch it up a bit, try some less reserved options like silk or taffeta.

Natural flooring of wood, stone or marble works best in the classically styled environment.

When accenting with whites, choose off-white if you want to stay in keeping with a more authentic classical color palette. Choose bright white if you want a slightly more contemporary feel instead.

COUNTRY

Country interior design is all about lived-in comfort. The emphasis is on natural materials, handcrafted features and time-worn charm.

Your color palette can vary widely, but country decorating gets inspiration from the surrounding landscape. That's why you often will see color schemes centered on greens, reds, blues, beige and white to name a few.

The materials and textures you use are key to anchoring this style. Tactile surfaces of wood, wicker weaving, wrought iron, stone, pottery, tin and other natural or earthy materials work well and provide great visual texture as well.

Floral or checked fabric made of simple materials, like cotton and linen, compliment a casual, country style. You can go with more sophisticated silk and damask if you are creating a more refined, "cottage" variation of this style.

Consider soft, fresh colors for your country inspired home. The overall look should bring to mind the long traditions of living in the countryside. Whatever variation of country interior design you choose to create, always remember the end result should look soft and built up over time.

Incorporate antique furniture or hand-crafted decorative accessories throughout the scheme.

Natural floors (like wood) work best. Area rugs can be used, but leave some parts of the floor exposed. Wall to wall carpet is not ideal because it doesn’t have that built up, layered look.

Mix floral patterns with checks and stripes for upholstery and fabrics. Don't try to make everything match precisely.

ART DECO

The Art Deco movement was prominent in the first half of the twentieth century, especially between the two world wars. It had a significant impact on many aspects of art and culture including architecture and interior design. Art Deco combines some design elements from ancient cultures with a modernist, Machine Age look.

Art Deco interior design features elements that are very streamlined, geometric and often even curvaceous. In the sample room shown here, a combination of rectilinear and rounded shapes make up the scene. Stainless steel and glass are important elements in Art Deco interior design. Be sure to include them in your design scheme.

When it comes to a color palette, Art Deco style is fairly versatile. For a more classic look try a color palette centered on black, whites, browns or tans. To put a more contemporary twist on this style, go with a bolder color scheme.

Feature some very streamlined furnishings with a Burlwood style finish – maybe a coffee table, side table or entertainment center for example. Inlaid wood is an element of the Art Deco look.

Accessorize with curvaceous forms.

GOTHIC

When you think of Gothic style some images that come to mind might be stone castles, soaring cathedrals featuring intricate architectural detail, tall, arched windows and stained glass. Maybe your mind even pictured the cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris.

You can incorporate elements of it to establish a clear link to Gothic style while still allowing your space to function in way appropriate to your lifestyle. You can inject a Gothic feel in your interior through a combination of furnishings, fabric choices and visual motifs for example.

Choose fairly heavy, wood furniture pieces with intricate details to serve as end or side tables and other display areas. A Gothic inspired dining room might feature a solid, carved wood table, for example, with wood chairs featuring upholstered seats. The chair backs might include an engraved or cut-through quatrefoil design - a four leaf clover shape popular in the Middle Ages.

A heavy weight fabric, like velvet, for window draperies can lend support to your Gothic theme. Choose drapery rods with finials in the shape of a fleur de lis or trefoil for added emphasis. Don’t forget the benefit of using wall tapestries. They are a sure fire way to help build a distinctly Gothic look.

And lighting? Look for something eye catching like a chandelier, for example. Try a rustic style made of metal that exhibits a pointed arch design – a common form in the Gothic period. A traditional, brass, candelabra chandelier can work with a softer Gothic look when more distinct lighting options can’t be found.

Add a fireplace screen or some window cornices with a pointed arch shape to evoke the architecture of the Middle Ages.

Incorporate some stained glass accents or accessories.

TROPICAL

One way to develop a tropical scheme is to think about what it is that you would expect to experience in a tropical location. Are you getting images of sand, beautiful ocean views, lush foliage? Maybe you’re feeling the soft ocean breeze brush your face. Let these images and sensations guide you in the creation of your space.

For a backdrop consider a neutral color scheme. You can add stronger touches of accent color, like citrus hues for example, to punch it up and round it out. Walls painted in a sandy beige color or white can a good choice to evoke the beach or breaking waves. Blue or green hues could also be a good choice, bringing to mind the sky or sea. The goal here is to establish a light and airy feeling.

Texture and wood play a huge role in a tropical interior design scheme. Woven elements like rattan and wicker furniture work great. Teak and bamboo features lend a very tropical vibe as well. As an alternative to painted walls consider grasscloth wallpaper for an exotic, textural feel.

When you choose fabrics go with natural fibers such as cotton, linen and silk. Use gauze fabric on windows or draped over a four post bed, for example. It enhances the easy, breezy atmosphere.

Palm plants and tropical flowers, like orchids for example, will further enhance your tropical interior design and inject a touch of lush foliage. Accessories featuring coral, shells – anything that evokes a tropical location – can help round out the look.

If you want to go the extra mile, add some wood beams in intervals across your ceiling. Or cover your ceiling completely with wood slats to inject an exotic, architectural element into your tropical interior design scheme.

Wood or tiled floors look best in a tropical interior. Use a natural fiber area rug such as sisal to anchor your space elements.

Enhance your space with tropical flare. Consider a pair of pineapple shaped table lamp with fluted shades for accent lighting. Commandeer a flat-topped trunk for use as a coffee table.

Create a breeze with a tropically inspired fan overhead. A ceiling fan with woven panels or panels in the shape of banana tree leaves looks perfect!

RUSTIC

Rustic interior design emphasizes unrefined, natural elements that together look and feel quite cozy. This style is particularly suited to rural, woodland regions because it takes its inspiration from the untamed landscape.

Pine wood is a big plus because it often features knots and imperfections which lend themselves nicely to an unrefined appearance.

Consider incorporating reclaimed barn wood in some way. One option is to use it for flooring. Its rough quality has a quintessential rustic look and feel.

Mountain stone is an excellent choice for a fireplace or an accent wall in a rustic interior. Its rough quality will provide excellent visual texture to your space. Stone tiles work great for flooring. Consider it as an alternative to wood planks.

Punched tin lampshades and just about any non-shiny metal décor items add an old time touch to a rustic environment – particularly if they look hand-crafted. And don’t forget the antique, metal collectibles. They look quite at home in a rustic environment.

When it comes to a color palette consider an earth tone scheme. Browns, tans, greens and rusty reds look great in a rustic interior design scheme. If you want to add some brighter color, consider doing it with accessory items.

Fabrics and upholstery should reflect a simpler model as well. What you really want is a basic, natural material like cotton for example.

A woven accent blanket exhibiting a southwestern motif or a striped pillow reminiscent of a trendy ski lodge could be used to nice effect depending on how you want to position your look. Plaid is another option. And don’t forget the effectiveness of hand-made candles to give your rustic style the perfect aura.

Construct a rustic bed headboard with medium sized, white birch logs arranged in a vertical format.

Create a functional side table made from a section of tree trunk.

TUSCAN

Tuscan interior design evokes the sun-kissed fields and vineyards of Italy. It’s a warm, old world look that makes you feel instantly at home.

The inclusion of natural elements plays a key role in this old world interior style. A stone fireplace or accent feature can provide a perfect focal point.

Hardwood or stone tile covered floors complement the Tuscan look. Using wood beams overhead further establishes the atmosphere.

What is the color palette of Tuscany? Think luscious vineyards, golden grain fields, rich olive groves and ancient stone walls. Golden crèmes, browns, olive green tones and wine hues are always good choices to evoke the sunny pastoral surroundings.

Wrought iron and other scrolled metals are key ingredients in a successful Tuscan interior design. Look for tables and chairs of decorative metal construction or perhaps a romantic bed frame of elaborate wrought iron. You can impart this style element by your choice of wall décor and lighting fixtures as well.

Consider rounding out your Tuscan interior design style with decorative items that reference an old world past. Displaying a decorative Roman column or bust, for example, can be a great choice.

An arched mirror or a collection of arched wall art is an excellent choice as well. The arch shape is a common feature in Tuscan architecture. Using arches within your décor is a great way to reinforce the Tuscan theme.

Bring the sunny fields of Tuscany inside through the use of fresh flower and fruit displays. An alternative to fresh flowers might be a collection of dried flowers in muted colors for an old world look.

For a new twist on the style, try incorporating a group of black and white or sepia-toned photography in your wall decor. The classic appearance of the photos will connect to the rest of the space, but arranged on the wall in a quadrant or geometric pattern, the collection will have a more up-to-date and refreshing effect.

SWEDISH (GUSTAVIAN)

Swedish interior design style is characterized by a look that is light, airy and elegant. Whether classic in emphasis, country or contemporary in direction, this style underscores an elegant and refreshing atmosphere.

Despite originating centuries ago, the Swedish Gustavian style is a look that is still popular today. It usually features white painted, neo-classical furnishings – often displaying the patina of age – set against a very light, interior background.

If you are going for the Swedish interior look I have one word for you – white! Okay, maybe not literally everything white – that might get pretty boring. But keeping the supporting hues light is really important. Very soft blues, grays and greens are typical of this style, but the overall finished look should be very light and airy.

For a Gustavian inspired interior, choose white painted furniture that features a classic silhouette. Time worn or distressed edges will further emphasize the look and is a very desirable attribute. Wall moldings and furniture with raised detail will add greater visual interest in this largely white environment.

A touch of gold gilding is important as an accent. Hints of it can be brought in through the raised details of furnishings and by your choice of lighting elements, picture and mirror framing, for example.

Your walls and trim should be painted white (or a very soft gray, blue or green). Alternately, you might choose a wallpaper pattern. If you go with wallpaper, consider a neo-classic style with a very open and subdued pattern in soft colors on a white background. A common Swedish design motif is floral swags with ribbons and bows.

If you have attractive window moldings you might not want to use draperies at all but perhaps opt for simple sheers or fabric blinds like inside-mounted roman shades. If you choose draperies instead, try something that doesn't not contrast too sharply with the light colored walls. Your window treatments should complement the subtle yet sophisticated overall effect.

Consider natural fabrics for your Swedish interior design style. Linen, cotton and silk are some possibilities.

Finally, add a bit of bling to your look in the form of crystal lighting. This could be a classic, crystal chandelier (it’s been said that every Gustavian interior has one) or similar wall sconces, for example. The crystals will reflect the light in the airy space and be the crown jewel of your inspired Swedish interior design.

Soft blue and white is a common Swedish color scheme. Consider accenting your interior with classic, blue and white porcelain pieces.

Round out your look with that distinctive piece of Swedish furniture – a painted, curvaceous, floor clock.

Source: www.interior-design-tutor.net

Home Security Systems

2010-09-03T12:22:00.004+01:00

CONDUCT A RESEARCH

1. Survey your home and determine how many windows and doors you want to be 'switched,' or integrated into the home security system.

2. Determine possible locations for the control panel and keypads. You might find it convenient to place a keypad close to the front door. You might also want a keypad close to the bedrooms. The control panel commands the system, and the keypads allow you to program the system and turn it, or its components, on and off.

3. Determine how far away windows and doors are from the control panel so that you know how far wires will be routed if you choose a wired alarm system or how far a wireless system needs to communicate with sensors. Keep in mind that it is difficult to install a hard-wired security system unless your house is still under construction.

4. Decide whether you want a monitored security system that will be monitored 24 hours a day. The central monitoring station 'watches' your home for a monthly fee. A less expensive alternative is a basic sensor system with a dialer accessory that connects the system to your phone lines and dials preselected numbers if the house's security is breached.

5. Consider your lifestyle. Does anyone in the family often get up in the middle of the night for a snack? Do you have a large pet that roams the house at night? Such circumstances will influence the type of motion sensor you select and how it is installed. It may also call for you or members of your family to take trip to the keypad to prevent false alarms.

CHOOSE THE RIGHT SYSTEM

1. Consult with a reputable home security system adviser.

2. Choose a system with a control panel that can monitor all the zones you have in your home. Each window or door integrated into the system is considered a zone. A basic system is capable of controlling eight zones. However, many panels permit the addition of expansion modules that allow the system to watch up to 32 zones.

3. Determine if the routing of the wires for a hard-wired security system might be too long. With a wired system, you will have to drill holes in walls where wires will have to be routed. If the wire run appears too long to you, choose a wireless system. Make certain that a wireless system can perform up to the distance of the farthest zone.

4. Be certain that the system you choose can accept fire-protection sensors, carbon monoxide sensors and combustible-gas detectors, anti-freeze-up low-temperature switches (especially in cold climates) and water detectors. Make sure that panic buttons are or can be included.

5. Choose a system that is user-friendly. Make certain that inputting codes into the keypad is not a complicated process and is one that everyone in the family can learn quickly. You don't want to have to refer to the owner's manual as you input or try to interpret codes.

6.Work the keypad of the system you select to assure yourself that it is easy to use. Encourage all family members to work the keypad so that you will select one that everyone can use comfortably.

You may want to include some kind of alarm noisemaker. A blast of a siren or alarm bell not only alerts neighbors that an intruder is in your home, but also can scare the trespasser away.

A motion sensor outside the home can provide an early warning and, when used with a noise-maker, can discourage an intruder from entering your home.

Source: www.ehow.com

Interior Design Q & A

2010-08-30T13:05:00.003+01:00

WHY SHOULD I SEEK THE SERVICE OF AN INTERIOR DESIGNER?

1. Their knowledge, expertise, and guidance can help prevent costly mistakes.
2. They know how to work with architects and contractors, they have established contact with skilled trades people, and they supervise your project to completion, smoothly and on time.
3. A professional, will save you countless hours of shopping - they have access to a wide range of domestic and foreign resources.
4. They are trained to make the most of available spaces and do create the traffic patterns and furniture arrangements that make daily living functional, safe, comfortable and easy.

WHEN SHOULD I USE A DESIGN PROFESSIONAL?

1. When you are contemplating buying or building a new house.
2. When you plan a major addition to your home
3. When you want to renovate or remodel your living space
4. When your expanding family needs to "reorganize" space allocations.
5. When you like a variety of styles but are not sure how to group them together.
6. When your rooms needs new drapes, floor coverings, furniture and accessories.

WHAT SHOULD I KNOW BEFORE CONTACTING AN INTERIOR DESIGNER?

1. Collect clippings from magazines and photos of items and decors that appeal to you.
2. Know what colors, style and effects you like.
3. Know what you want to accomplish, what the room or house should do for you when finished.
4. Establish a time frame in which you would like the work to be accomplished.

WHAT SHOULD I BUDGET?

For a new (empty) house or condominium you should calculate about 25% of its total purchase price. For an existing space consult with the interior designer what would be a fair budget estimate.

WHAT SHOULD I ASK AT THE FIRST MEETING?

1. Ask to see the interior designer's portfolio, but remember that the illustrations reflect other people's tastes not the designer's, and probably not your own.
2. What size projects the interior designer has worked on, where, and what was the budget range?
3. How the established budget will be handled, and the kind of payment schedules the designer requires.
4. Types of services the designer can provide.
5. List of references.

HOW DO DESIGNERS CHARGE?

1. Flat Design Fee: Client pays a flat fee for interior design services based on the design plan, time required, and scope of services.
2. Hourly Rate: Interior designer bills a negotiated rate per hour.
3. Cost Plus Method: Interior designers charge a set percentage on all merchandise purchased and tradesmen's services rendered.
4. Mixed Method: Client pays both a set percentage on purchases and a base design fee for hourly rate.
5. Per square foot: This method is used especially in new construction.

Source: www.ambianceinteriordesign.com

Green Building - Guide To Natural Building Materials

2010-08-24T14:06:00.009+01:00

"Natural building" is an umbrella term than connotes any sort of building that is accomplished with the use of natural materials primarily, as opposed to the use of man-made or industrial materials. The objective is to build with simple techniques that don't further pollute the environment, consume more fossil fuel, or unnecessarily extract the resources of Mother Earth. Such techniques, by their very nature, have an aesthetic value that tends to blend in with the environment and "feel" natural.

ADOBE

Adobe is one of the oldest building materials in use. It is basically just dirt that has been moistened with water, sometimes with chopped straw or other fibers added for strength, and then allowed to dry in the desired shape. Commonly adobe is shaped into uniform blocks that can be stacked like bricks to form walls, but it can also be simply piled up over time to create a structure. The best adobe soil will have between 15% and 30% clay in it to bind the material together, with the rest being mostly sand or larger aggregate. Too much clay will shrink and crack excessively; too little will allow fragmentation. Sometimes adobe is stabilized with a small amount of cement or asphalt emulsion added to keep it intact where it will be subject to excessive weather. Adobe blocks can be formed either by pouring it into molds and allowing it to dry, or it can pressed into blocks with a hydraulic or leverage press. Adobe can also be used for floors that have resilience and beauty, colored with a thin slip of clay and polished with natural oil.

Adobe is a good thermal mass material, holding heat and cool well. It does not insulate very well, so walls made of adobe need some means of providing insulation to maintain comfort in the building. Sometimes this is accomplished by creating a double wall, with an air space, or some other insulation in between. Another approach is placing insulating materials on the outside.

COB

Cob is a very old method of building with earth and straw or other fibers. It is quite similar to adobe in that the basic mix of clay and sand is the same, but it usually has a higher percentage of long straw fibers mixed in. Cob is normally applied by hand in large gobs (or cobs).

Because of all the straw, cob can be slightly more insulating than adobe, but it still would not make a very comfortable house in a climate of extreme temperatures.

A variant of cob is what is commonly called "light straw/clay". This is made with the same long fibers of straw which is tossed like spagetti with a sauce of clay slip. The idea is to coat the straw fibers with enough of the clay to get them to stick together, but not so much that it makes a gummy clump. This material is then tamped into a form and left to set up enough to remove the form. Light straw walls could be useful for interior partitions and even exterior walls if it is thick enough. Such walls would be quite a bit more insulating than cob, but they require a timber frame of some sort because the straw itself would not be load bearing.

POURED EARTH

Poured earth is similar to ordinary concrete, in that it is mixed and formed like concrete and uses Portland cement as a binder. Instead of the sand/gravel used as an aggregate in concrete, poured earth uses ordinary soil. Little to no maintenance is required of poured earth walls, since they have a high resistance to the deteriorating effects of water and sun. Ideal soil is basically low in clay.

Since poured earth is similar to concrete, local suppliers can provide the product which can then be pumped using traditional concrete pump trucks. Standard concrete forms can be used in preparation for the pour.

It is possible to incorporate rigid insulation within a poured earth wall, so that there is a thermal break between the exterior and the interior, thus allowing the interior portion of the wall to serve as appropriate thermal mass for the building.

STRAWBALE

Straw is a renewable resource that acts as excellent insulation and is fairly easy to build with. Care must be taken to assure that the straw is kept dry, or it will eventually rot. For this reason it is generally best to allow a strawbale wall to remain breathable; any moisture barrier will invite condensation to collect and undermine the structure. Other possible concerns with strawbale walls are infestation of rodents or insects, so the skin on the straw should resist these critters.

There are two major categories of building with strawbales: load-bearing and non-load bearing. A post and beam framework that supports the basic structure of the building, with the bales of straw used as infill, is the most common non-load bearing approach. Care must be taken to consider the possible settling of the strawbales as the weight of the roof, etc. compresses them.

Erecting bale walls can go amazingly quickly, and does not take a lot of skill, but then the rest of the creation of the building is similar to any other wood framed house. The result is often worth it, because of the superior insulation and wall depth that is achieved.

CORDWOOD

Cordwood construction utilizes short, round pieces of wood, similar to what would normally be considered firewood. For this reason this method of building can be very resource efficient, since it makes use of wood that might not have much other value. Cordwood building can also create a wall that has both properties of insulation and thermal mass. The mass comes from the masonry mortar that is used to cement the logs together, and the insulation comes from the wood itself and the central cavity between the inside and outside mortars.

This method produces a look that is both rustic and beautiful. The process of building is similar to laying rocks in mortar, where the the logs are aligned with their ends sticking out to create the surface of the wall and mortar is applied adjacent to each end of the log. Typically the logs are not coated with a moisture barrier, but are allowed to breath naturally. It is possible to include other materials into the matrix, such as bottle ends that would provide light to enter the wall.

BAMBOO

Bamboo is one of the most amazingly versatile and sustainable building materials available. It grows remarkably fast and in a wide range of climates. It is exceedingly strong for its weight and can be used both structurally and as a finish material. The canes are beautiful when exposed and they can be cut in such a way as to be re-combined into useful products such as flooring.

There is a long vernacular tradition to the use of bamboo in structures in many parts of the world, especially in more tropical climates, where it grows into larger diameter canes.

STONE

Building with rock dates back to the beginning of human history. Many cultures have left durable evidence of their fine craftsmanship with stone masonry.

Rocks are infinitely variable in shape, color, texture, hardness, etc.There is definitely an art to laying stones, one that can be learned by studying, watching or doing. One basic tenet is to overlap the rocks as much as possible, as one would do with laying bricks. This creates a strong wall that resists cracking along weak seam lines. Another good practice is to keep the very largest rocks toward the bottom of the structure. Every rock mason has his individual style, almost a signature.

Rocks are particularly suitable in areas where thermal mass is desired, since they can hold their temperature very well. This means that rock walls in the interior of a building, especially where they will be struck by sunlight, can serve to store heat or moderate temperature fluctuations. If used as an exterior wall, rocks should be insulated from the inside to keep them from bleeding heat or cold in either direction.

Source: www.greenhomebuilding.com

Build or remodel for less

2010-08-19T11:20:00.003+01:00

How much will your building or remodeling project cost? Maybe less than you think! Here's how to cut costs without compromising comfort and beauty.

ESTIMATE EARLY

Before you get far in the planning process, start collecting estimates. These early estimates will be approximate, but they can help you make important building decisions. Once you know the likely costs, you can modify your plans to meet your budget.

BEWARE BUDGET BUILDING LOTS

The cheapest building lot might not be the most affordable. Your costs will soar if your builders have to blast through rock, clear away trees, or provide extensive drainage. Also be sure to factor in the cost of installing public services. The most economical building lots are often in developments with access to electricity, gas, and public water lines.

CHOOSE SIMPLE SHAPES

Triangles, trapezoids, and other complex shapes are difficult and expensive to build. To save costs, choose square or rectangular floor plans. Avoid cathedral ceilings and complicated roof-lines. Best yet? Forget the box and opt for an ultra-affordable dome home.

BUILD SMALL

When you compare costs per square foot, a big house can seem like a bargain. After all, even the smallest house will need high-ticket items like plumbing and heating. But check the bottom line. In most cases, smaller houses are more affordable to build and more economical to maintain. Also, a house that is deeper than 32 feet may require specially-designed roof trusses, which will make your costs go through the roof.

BUILD TALL

The most affordable houses are compact. Instead of building a single story house that sprawls across the lot, consider a house with two or three stories. The taller house will have the same amount of living space, but the roof and foundation will be smaller. Plumbing and ventilation are also less expensive in multi-story homes.

DON'T PAY FOR A PHANTOM SPACE

Before you choose a plan for your new home, you'll want to know how much space you're paying for. Find out how much of the total area represents actual living space, and how much represents "empty" spaces such as garages, attics, and wall insulation.

RECONSIDER YOUR CABINETS

Solid wood cabinets are elegant, but there are less expensive ways to give kitchens, bathrooms, and home offices a sleek, designer look. Consider open shelving or stainless steel cabinets with frosted glass doors.

USE RECYCLED MATERIALS

Recycled construction materials are earth-friendly and can also help take the bite out of building costs. Look for products like recycled steel, pressed straw paneling, and sawdust and cement composites. Also browse architectural salvage warehouses for doors, windows, lumber, light fixtures, plumbing fixtures, fireplace mantels, and assorted architectural details.

POSTPONE THE FRILLS

While your budget is tight, opt for door hardware, faucets, and light fixtures from your local home improvement store. Items like these can be easily changed, and you can always upgrade later on.

INVEST IN QUALITY

While you can postpone frills like fancy doorknobs, it doesn't pay to scrimp when it comes to features that can't be easily changed. Forget the tacky vinyl siding. Invest your homebuilding dollars in construction materials that will bear the test of time.

BUILD FOR ENERGY-EFICIENCY

Don't be put off by the high price tags. Energy-efficient heating systems and "Energy-Star" rated appliances may cost more to install, but can save money (and the environment) over time. The most economical house is the one you can afford to live in for many years to come.

GO MODULAR

Some of the most interesting and most affordable homes being built today are factory-built, modular, or prefabricated, homes. Just like the Sears mail order houses from the early 20th century, modular homes come complete with building plans and pre-cut construction materials.

FINISH IT YOURSELF

You don't need to be a construction expert to take on some jobs yourself. Perhaps you can take care of finishing details such as painting and landscaping. Also, consider postponing some parts of the project. Leave the basement or garage unfinished and tackle those spaces at a later date.

CONSULT A PRO

When money is tight, it's tempting to skimp on hiring a pro. Keep in mind, however, that architects and professional home designers can help you avoid costly mistakes. Pros also have access to money-saving resources that you might not find on your own. To cut your consultation costs, sketch out your ideas before your first meeting.

By Jackie Craven at www.about.com

DIY do's and don'ts

2010-08-17T12:18:00.006+01:00

The home can be a highly dangerous area so every diy'er needs to take some precaution and, more importantly, use common sense. The following are some basic principles for the do it yourself person.

DIY DO'S

1. Always keep safely in mind before you do any diy activity, use caution, care, and good judgement - if in doubt, don't !

2. Always read the labels on cans containing paints, solvents, and other products; AND always follow the guidelines and any other warnings.

3. Always read the manufacturer's instructions (especially the warnings) before using any tool, especially power tools with cutting blades/bits.

4. Always know and accept the limitations of your tools - use the appropriate tool for the task. Do not try to use a tool for anything it is not designed to do.

5. Always remove the key from any drill chuck (hand or stand mounted) after you have removed/fitted a drill bit. Do not leave the key in the chuck even when the drill is switched off.

6. Always wear the appropriate protection for the job in hand. This may involve gloves, facemasks (to filter dust etc.) and/or eye protection.

7. Always make sure that any tool adjustment is secured before using the tool - it is always better to double check an adjustment - e.g., always check the fence on a saw bench - this will avoid possible injury and scraped material.

8. Always be sure that the electrical supply is safe before using it; do not overload any circuit. Make sure all power tools, extension cables and electrical outlets are serviceable and undamaged. Do not use power tools in wet conditions.

9. Always check for possible cables/pipework before drilling or cutting 'blind' into any wall or other surface. Take care when you cannot see the reverse side of what you are drilling or cutting.

10. Always clamp small workpieces firmly to a bench or other work surface when using a power tool on them.

11. Always remember that things can go wrong very quickly and the body's reaction will not always be quick enough.

12. Always use both hands where a tool is designed to be used two handed.

13. Always check your local building regulations before carrying out any new construction or major remodelling. The regulations are intended to avoid safety hazards and should be observed - they should not be considered obstructions to be circumvented.

14. Always check ladders and steps before use, make sure the rungs and sides are undamaged. Always check the security of a ladder or set of steps before you start to climb.

15. Always be aware and alert!

DIY DON'TS

1. Never wear loose clothing, hanging hair or jewellery when using power tools.

2. Never work with power tools when you are under the influence of alcohol or drugs or are tired. If in doubt - don't. Any of these factors can impair judgement of your ability, your physical state and general safety aspects - if always better to delay a job than risk serious injury.

3. Never use a power tool which is damaged in any way (case, switch or cable etc.). If it starts to make an odd noise or emit smells - stop and investigate.

4. Never cut small, loose pieces of wood, metal or other material using a power tool - small off-cuts which you cannot hold or secure, will tend to fly off with potential for injury.

5. Never change a drill bit, router cutter or saw blade or make any adjustment to a 'cutting' power tool - until the power cable has been unplugged. Do not rely only upon the switch on the tool or outlet.

6. Never work with blunt tools (saws, drill bits, cutters etc.). Sharpen the tools yourself, have them sharpened, or throw them away and use a new tool.

7. Never use a power tool on a workpiece which is not firmly secured.

8. Never drill or cut 'blind' into a surface before checking the possible location of electrical cables or pipework.

9. Never saw a large workpiece unless it is well supported both sides of the cut or there is someone else to support the off-cut. Never saw a workpiece supported on any part of your body (or anyone else's body !).

10. Never carry sharp tools in your pocket. If you want to carry such tools, use a special-purpose tool belt.

11. Never relay on your weight to stabilise a ladder or mobile steps, if necessary get someone to stand at the bottom or use stabilisers.

12. Never overreach when working on a ladder or steps, always re-position ladder/steps.

Source: www.houseprofessionals.com

Windows with style

2010-08-13T09:57:00.009+01:00

How to decorate your windows with style? Here are some tips on choosing window treatment hardware.

Determine if you want the window hardware to stand out or be "invisible". Rods and finials might be more prominent in a formal room while a contemporary room calls for clean lines and an uncluttered look.

Consider the function of a window treatment as you choose the hardware. Draperies that close will require easy sliding rings or a draw cord system. Stationery decorative panels can be gathered onto a rod or hung from tab tops or ties.

Layer your window treatments for the most flexibility. For example, place blinds next to the glass for privacy and light control, then add decorative curtain panels for color and style.

Use two rods or a double rod to accommodate a layer of sheers and over drapes, or drapes and a valance.

Look for rods, finials, and hardware in styles and colors that will enhance the look of your decor and the window treatments.

Contemporary homes will find that chrome rods, glass finials, metals, iron, and cable systems will fit well with that look.

Newer wire systems are perfect for very wide windows and for contemporary rooms where furnishings and accessories may be minimal and straight lined.

Match the hardware to the style of your draperies and your room. Choose sturdy larger diameter rods for heavy draperies. Sheer panels and lighter silks will look more appropriate on thinner lighter rods.

Carved dark wood, gilt touches, and traditional shapes work well in formal, traditional, or period rooms.

Scale is another important consideration. Reserve heavy cornices and finials for larger rooms with high ceilings. Keep the scale lighter for smaller spaces with low ceilings.

Iron, black wrought iron, and rustic metals might be used in country interiors, rustic rooms, and some themed rooms in Tuscan, Spanish, and other rustic styles.

Country styles can be accented with pine, iron, and simple wood rods.

Add height to a room by installing drapery hardware well above the window frame, or even up along the ceiling line. The longer fabric panels will add a tall line to the rooms.

Source: www.rentaldecorating.com

Central Heating Explained

2010-08-10T10:41:00.009+01:00

There are three main types of household heating and water systems these days. As a brief guide only, these systems are described in the following sections.

GRAVITY FED SYSTEM

In a gravity fed system water is heated by your boiler. This water is then pumped to your radiators for central heating and/or your hot water storage cylinder, where the water stored is in turn heated.
Water may be supplied to the boiler's heating circuit from a small Feed and Expansion tank often situated in the loft. This tank ensures the system is kept topped up and allows for any expansion or evaporation that may occur.
Alternatively, a System Boiler may be used which has no need of a separate expansion tank.
The hot water cylinder is supplied from another larger tank often situated in the loft. As you open a hot tap, water drawn from the cylinder is replenished by this tank.
Water is supplied to the loft tank/s by the rising main, usually through a ball cock valve and are themselves replenished when levels drop.
Because the tank/s in the loft are isolated from the main supply by a valve, they use only their height to force water down by means of gravity. The pressure at your hot tap is proportional to the distance of the tank above the outlet.

ADVANTAGES: Suitable for addition of power shower pump to provide exceptional flow rates.
DISADVANTAGES: Uneconomical for space. An unpumped system may offer low pressure at taps.
ECONOMY: Water must be heated and stored whether or not it's used.
SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS: Boiler, hot water cylinder, loft tank, rads

COMBINATION BOILERS

A Combination Boiler typically requires no storage tanks. It provides hot water to your taps 'on demand' and/or heat for your radiators as programmed. Combi's only heat what you require.
Offering the advantage of space saving, Combi Boilers are popular.
They can however have the disadvantage of lower hot water flow rates - more often noticed when filling a bath or when simultaneous supply is called for at more than one outlet.
Not particularly suitable for properties with more than one bathroom or shower.
Boilers with bigger and better flow rates are being achieved but performance is still a little lacking.

ADVANTAGES: Compact unit requiring no external tanks - good for space saving. Perform well with showers. Endless amounts of hot water on demand.
DISADVANTAGES: Typically lower flow rates than other systems. Baths can take a long time to fill. Will not support simultaneous demand from several outlets. You cannot install a shower pump.
ECONOMY: You only heat what you need.

SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS: Combination boiler, rads

MAINS OR HIGH PRESSURE SYSTEMS

These are regarded by some as the best, but beware - there are disadvantages here too.
The term typically refers to the pressure you achieve at your hot taps. Mains pressure systems provide mains pressure hot water.
This is only an advantage if you enjoy good mains pressure within your property. If your supply pressure and flow rate are poor there is little point.
There are different system types that can offer this facility and you are recommended to examine them carefully before you decide which is best for you.
Remember, hot water at high pressure can present a risk. Some systems require notification to building control, certified installation and commissioning, and annual servicing to ensure they continue to function safely. A system storing hot water under pressure that is incorrectly installed or poorly serviced can be dangerous.

ADVANTAGES: Hot water at mains pressure throughout your property. Potentially high flow rates. No feed or expansion tanks in loft.
DISADVANTAGES: Slightly more costly to install. Some HP Systems require certification and annual maintenance for reasons of safety. Pressure and flow only as good as your incoming main. You may not install a shower pump on a mains-fed system.
ECONOMY: Choosing a system type requiring annual maintenance will lock you into long term cost. Water must be heated and stored regardless of use.
SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS: Boiler, Pressure Vessel or Thermal Store, Rads.

If you have any doubts you should discuss your installation in detail with your supplier, or your installer who must be CORGI registered. In the case of oil boilers this should be done by an OFTEC registered engineer.

TYPES OF FUEL

Natural Gas - This is piped to your home via a supply company. If you require natural gas and it has not been connected to your home yet then it can cost a lot of money to get connected. You can install a gas central heating system yourself but will need a Corgi registered installer to make the connection to the gas supply. Natural gas is very convenient and there are a good variety of heating systems that can be powered by gas, such as Combi's, back boilers, wall heaters etc. Another benefit is that you will not run out of fuel for your heating.

LPG - This is an alternative to natural gas where it is too expensive or impractical to get natural gas. LPG is supplied to your home via large orange cylinders that stand about 4 feet tall, you usually require two of these cylinders to be fitted with a valve to switch between the two as there are no gauges on them to tell you how full they are. LPG works in exactly the same way as natural gas but you will need a boiler that can be made compatible via a conversion kit.

Oil - Oil fuels some of the most efficient boilers available, the choice of heating systems are fewer than with gas being restricted to just boilers. In most cases to run an oil boiler you will need a tank to be installed outside your house, these are usually large and very hard to disguise, you also have to conform to a variety of regulations in sighting it. Another thing with oil is that if you let it run out then you will need a heating engineer to re-prime the system before you can get it working again.

Solid Fuel - Solid fuel heating boilers are mostly limited to back boilers, or kitchen ranges. There are some solid fuel boilers which run the same way as other fuelled boilers and use automatically fed pellets from a hopper situated outside the house. Most solid fuel heating systems are inefficient as they consist of open fires; they also can be messy and require cleaning out once a day at least.
Solid fuel comes in a variety of forms, coal, wood, etc.

Electricity - Until recently effective Electric central heating was limited to storage heaters or blown air systems. These were both run off cheap rate electricity supplied in the small hours, and in some cases for a short top up period in the afternoon. Though storage heaters (the most popular) are reasonably efficient they have a problem of being on all the time, so if you have a hot day after a cold day in the winter, you will have heating even though you don't need it. They are also susceptible to drafts which can discharge them very quickly indeed.
A new form of electric powered heating has appeared recently in the form of electric heating boilers. These can directly replace other boilers in conventional heating systems; they are very compact, light and can be run off cheap rate electricity. Another benefit is that they are completely silent.

Sources: www.gasapplianceguide.co.uk
www.diydoctor.org.uk

Interior Decor Tips: Accessories

2010-08-05T10:43:00.004+01:00

Accessories are the finishing touches of any room – the vases, throw pillows, knickknacks, pictures, lamps – those treasures that personalize your home. They convey your style, your personality and set the tone for the room. Using accessories to redecorate a room is not only a quick fix, but a low budget makeover as well. You don’t even need to go out and buy new accessories, although to me that's half the fun, to get a new look.

Just by rearranging the smaller items in your room, you can have a new look for that same old room for just a fraction of the cost. If you use the following tips, your room can take on a professionally decorated look - if you randomly have accessories placed around the room, your room can look cluttered. Try these accessory decorating tips to give your rooms a more polished look.

Starting from Scratch

Start with a clean slate – take out all of the accessories and just start over rather than rearranging here and there – you won’t believe how much of a difference just removing clutter can make in the room. Try leaving all the smaller items out of the room for a day or two, you’d be surprised what ideas you come up with during that time!

Defining Your Room

With the accessories out of the room, take stock of the room style. Is it modern, country, primitive, European? Do the accessories you’re going to be putting back in fit with that style? If not, you can always move them to another room and buy a few more pieces, there are so many places to purchase quality accessories today, that you can invest in a few nice pieces to fit right in to your room.

Adding Your Accessories

Start with the largest accessory first, then work your way down to the smaller items. Analyze each accessory addition and do not over-accessorize. Stand out of the room and look in to get the first impression of your room. If an item doesn’t seem to quite fit the style, or the room is beginning to look cluttered, be prepared to either move the leftover pieces to another room, or put them aside to go to a consignment shop or a yard sale. Follow these tips for proper accessory placement:

Use odd number groupings – one, three, or five. Don’t make the grouping too large, or nothing stands out and it looks cluttered. Even number groupings, such as a pair or group of four, tend to make the group look over-decorated – save that look for the more formal rooms in your home. The decorating rule is - you can use symmetrical arrangements, such as pairings, in formal rooms. In more casual rooms, use asymmetrical arrangements of both furniture and accessories.
When displaying family photos, whether on the wall or on a table, they look best when they have a common design element throughout the grouping – you can do this by having all the frames in the same finish or color, or even having all of the photo themselves a sepia or black and white as the common element.
Place accessories within an imaginary triangle – high, medium and low - to add interest.
Do not hang artwork, photos or display shelves too high, this is one of the most common decorating mistakes homeowners make. Most wall accessories should be at eye level.

With these tips and a little creativity, you can create a fresh look for a tired room just by rearranging and redefining your accessories.

Source: www.decoratorsecret.com

How to get rid of black mold?

2010-08-01T12:42:00.005+01:00

The black mold that grows in the corner of your shower stall or on the basement wall behind your washing machine is unlikely to be toxic. Toxic mold is usually found on materials containing cellulose. Cellulose is a fiber found in wood, cotton, hemp, and is used in the manufacture of such items as drywall.

Toxic black mold is usually found within walls, in crawl spaces, and around sump pumps. However, when removing any mold, be certain to protect your eyes, your skin, and your respitory system.

To remove non-toxic black mold you will need bleach, water, detergent, a scrub brush, sponges, clean rags, rubber gloves, and a facemask.

Make up a bleach mix of one cup of bleach to one gallon of water. Apply this mix to the mold with a sponge, repeating the process until the mold is gone. You may need to use the scrub brush to completely remove the mold. Once the mold is removed, wash the area with the detergent. Dry thoroughly with clean, dry rags.

Dispose of the sponge, being sure to place it in a plastic bag. Though this type of mold is non-toxic, it is still a trigger for those with respiratory illnesses such as asthma. Dispose of the gloves and face mask.

Cleaning this type of mold does not prevent its return. Non-toxic black mold will continue to grow in moist and damp areas with little or no sunlight.

Preventing mold growth means reducing or, if possible, eliminating the moisture content on the surface and in the air of our home.

Use the fan in your bathroom after showering to reduce moisture quickly. Keeping the air dry within your home with a de-humidifier may also help. Consistently wiping down areas prone to black mold will also aid in prevention.

Toxic black mold is more difficult to detect, and is a health hazard. Toxic black mold grows on materials containing cellulose, such as drywall and some insulation. Because these materials are not exposed, but rather within the infrastructure of your home, it's unlikely you'll be aware of the mold.

Undisturbed, this mold will continue to grow, its toxicity coming from the dispersal of its spores. As this greenish black mold continues to grow it sends out spores that infest the ventilation system of your home. The spores settle in your carpeting and upholstery, feed on the cellulose in the paint on your walls, the wood in your furniture, the cotton in your bedding.

How do you know if you have toxic black mold in your home, and if you do, how do you get rid of it?

You are probably familiar with the musky odor of common mold, but toxic black mold carries with a harsher smell, like that of urine. If you have areas in your home where you're unable to identify the source of such an odor, there may be black mold behind the wall or in the ceiling.

Should you see whitish or pale patches on your wall that look as if the paint has faded, this could indicate toxic black mold.

If you suspect you have a black mold infestation, you can purchase a test kit. These can be found online and are relatively inexpensive.

But removal of toxic black mold isn't cheap. You need to remove the infected materials, clean the surrounding area, and replace the materials. You also need to repair the initial cause of the mold infestation, such as a leaky pipe.

You will need protective clothing such as worn by a HAZMAT team, including goggles and a respirator. Seal the area designated for mold removal, making certain all furnishings are removed. Use an ionizer during removal to prevent spores from spreading.

These precautions are necessary because when you disturb the mold itself, you will disperse the spores at an accelerated rate.

Though there are chemicals that can remove toxic black mold from surfaces such as drywall and studs, they are only effective if the problem is minimal, the infestation new. The safer, more effective method is to replace any and all materials infected with mold.

Double bag the materials in plastic garbage bags. Don't carry them out through the house. Rather, put them directly into a garbage can outside the window.

If you need to address several rooms, you will need to remove your protective gear, wash it or dispose of it, and begin the process of sealing off the new area and wearing clean protective gear.

Take all the necessary steps to reduce or eliminate the recurrence of the source of moisture that caused the original infestation. Such causes would be burst or leaky pipes, poorly maintained or faulty heating or cooling systems, or faulty sump pumps.

Once you have removed the mold sources, replaced the materials, and thoroughly cleaned or replaced carpeting and upholstery, run another test for mold.

Steps to prevent toxic mold are similar to those for preventing non-toxic mold. Reduce the humidity in your house to a minimum. Ensure your ventilation system allows for a 50/50 fresh air exchange to prevent build up of "wet air". In the event of water damage, as from a washing machine overflowing, clean up the spillage immediately and continue to monitor the area for signs of infestation.

by Shelly Mcrae at www.helium.com

Do it Yourself or Hire a Pro?

2010-07-21T19:42:00.002+01:00

Do it yourself...or not? You could literally spend months pondering whether to save money by doing the project yourself or...to break into the piggybank and hire a pro. Not an easy decision.

How Motivated Are You to Do it Yourself?

Have an uncontrollable desire to knock down interior walls? To renovate an entire kitchen? Or do you find that painting the baby's room one Sunday is quite enough to scratch that renovating itch? It's important to gauge how much you want to take on yourself before doing it.

TIP: Take on some small projects first to make sure you really want to "do it yourself" before tackling larger projects.

How Motivated Are You to Have Strangers in Your House?

They're in your house to help you, but in the process they turn your house upside-down. And managing work crews in your house is a taxing proposition. Do not underestimate the imposition of four workmen hanging drywall in your house for a solid week.

TIP: Decide how much lack of control in your house you can tolerate before inviting workers in.

What is Your Skill Level?

You have the power to take on any renovation project. A person who barely knows how to plug in a blender is capable of learning how to re-wire the entire kitchen. However, remember that your kitchen is your classroom. While you learn to distinguish ground wires from neutral, the kitchen is a disaster and you're washing sinks with a garden hose on the lawn.

TIP: Make certain you're at the proper skill level (or can learn quickly enough) to bring the project to a swift conclusion.

Do You Have the Time?

Tiling the bathroom is one thing. Tiling the bathroom at 9:30pm after a full day of conference calls is another thing. And don't you also have a life to lead?

TIP: Know in advance how much time you want to put into a project--before starting it.

How Does Your Funding Look?

Money, or lack of it, motivates the do-it-yourselfer. While there is a certain satisfaction in replacing your front door yourself, chances are Bill Gates hires someone else to do this for him.

TIP: If you have the money, and the project looks infinitely nasty, consider hiring a pro.

Source: www.about.com

Do I Need a Permit for my home project?

2010-07-19T11:27:00.003+01:00

Check with your local building safety department before beginning home-improvement projects. Requirements vary, but many building safety departments require permits for home improvement projects, including electrical, mechanical, structural or plumbing work. As a result of getting a permit, an inspector will check the work. Inspections provide a measure of safety to protect your life and property.

Projects That Usually Require Permits:

• Re-roofing
• Installing electrical outlets
• Replacing windows
• Remodeling kitchens or bathrooms
• Installing a pool, spa or hot tub
• Building an addition, including seasonal rooms
• Installing appliances and replacements such as furnaces, boilers, water heaters, fireplaces and space heaters
• Building a tall fence––over 6 feet in height

If you are planning to make home improvements, contact your local building safety department to find out what building safety code provisions apply in your area and if you need a permit.

Source: www.buildingsafetymonth.org

Find more information on Building Regulations and apply for a permit on www.direct.gov.uk

Stop Wasting Energy!

2010-07-14T12:12:00.003+01:00

1. Turn your thermostat down. Reducing your room temperature by 1°C could cut your heating bills by up to 10 percent and typically saves around £55 per year. If you have a programmer, set your heating and hot water to come on only when required rather than all the time.

2. Is your water too hot? Your cylinder thermostat should be set at 60°C/140°F.

3. Close your curtains at dusk to stop heat escaping through the windows and check for draughts around windows and doors.

4. Always turn off the lights when you leave a room.

5. Don't leave appliances on standby and remember not to leave laptops and mobile phones on charge unnecessarily.

6. If possible, fill up the washing machine, tumble dryer or dishwasher: one full load uses less energy than two half loads.

7. Only boil as much water as you need (but remember to cover the elements if you're using an electric kettle).

8. A dripping hot water tap wastes energy and in one week wastes enough hot water to fill half a bath, so fix leaking taps and make sure they're fully turned off!

9. Use energy saving lightbulbs. They last up to 10 times longer than ordinary bulbs, and using one can save you around £40 over the lifetime of the bulb.This saving could be around £65 over its lifetime if you're replacing a high wattage incandescent bulb, or one used for more than a few hours a day.

10. Do a home energy check available at www. energysavingtrust.org.uk . Just answer some simple questions about your home and they'll give you a free, impartial report telling you how you can save up to £300 a year on your household energy bills.

11. Because around half of heat loss in a typical home is through the walls and loft, it's worth checking whether yours are insulated.

12. Boilers account for around 60% of the carbon dioxide emissions in a gas heated home. By replacing an old G rated boiler with a new high efficiency condensing boiler and improving your heating controls, you will significantly cut your home's carbon dioxide emissions and could save as much as £235 a year.

13. Home appliances account for a significant chunk of your household CO₂ emissions, so it's in your interests to look for the Energy Saving Trust Recommended logo when buying appliances. It's your guarantee that these products are the most energy efficient in their category, will cost less to run and help lower CO₂ emissions.

14. Renewable energy technologies like wind turbines, solar panels and biomass heaters offer an alternative to fossil fuels and can help reduce your homes CO2 emissions. There are financial benefits too. Investing in a renewable energy technology now basically means pre-buying energy at today’s prices for a future where energy may cost a lot more. If fuel prices rise, your pay back would happen even sooner.

Find more information on energy saving, environmental issues and renewable energy sources, as well as some useful online tools that will help you improve energy efficiency of your home at www.energysavingtrust.org.uk

Finding and buying land

2010-07-05T12:53:00.004+01:00

Finding that perfect plot of land, one that ticks all the boxes can be one of the most challenging aspects of building a home. And once you’ve found a plot, there are many legal and financial considerations involved before you can actually buy it.

Top Tips For Finding & Buying Land:

1. Subscribe to an online land database – PlotSearch is currently the UK’s biggest, with more than 9,000 building opportunities. A lifetime subscription to the database costs just £40 – money well-spent!

2. Be proactive and get to know the area you want to live in – chat with the locals and let them know you are plot-hunting.

3. Search the local planning register for recent planning applications, particularly those for a single dwelling.

4. Draw up a legal and binding agreement with a plot-owner so that you don’t miss out.
Wherever possible, contact the owner of a plot, as opposed to the agent.

5. Work out the approximate value of a plot – remember they all have a ceiling value, so be sure that you are not going to over or under develop the plot.

6. Carry out some simple research of the neighbourhood and surrounding area before you buy, to make sure you get the most out of your plot and improve your chances of obtaining planning permission.

7. Just because a plot has no access to electricity that doesn’t make it less desirable – generators, solar, wind and water power are all good alternatives.

8. Lack of mains water on a plot can easily be solved through use of a bore hole (in 90% of the country), and rainwater harvesting and grey water recycling can also be used.

9. Geothermal sources are becoming increasingly popular, instead of mains gas; common alternatives also include oil and LPG.

10. Cheap alternatives are available if a plot has no access to a mains sewer, for example, the use of a septic tank or cesspool.

11. Self builders should buy land through private treaty, where the price is agreed between the parties; this includes auctions and tenders.

12. Always study all the details in the contracts before you commit to buying a plot.

13. At auctions, don’t get carried away - set your own set ceiling price, and don’t overbid.

14. Tender bids are not legally binding, so don’t expect that it will always result in a sale, even if you are the highest bidder.

15. If the plot deeds are missing, its essential to obtain an indemnity insurance policy.

16. Make sure that the plot has legal public access.

17. Check for ransom strips; if one is present, make sure all efforts are made to find the proper owner.

18. Never buy a plot of land without knowing if planning permission can be obtained.

19. Familiarise yourself with the planning types and conditions, and check the expiry date of consents on any plot you are thinking of purchasing.

Source: www.channel4.com

Useful Books on Building and Construction

2010-07-01T14:53:00.010+01:00

Thinking od building, remodelling or refurbishment? Below we present some useful books that can help you make up your mind and give you some ideas, tips and tricks on various topics such as construction, painting and interior design.

IAN ROCK - HOME EXTENSION MANUAL: THE STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO PLANNING, MANAGING AND BUILDING A PROJECT

Thousands of homes are extended each year, but 'getting the builders in' can be a recipe for disaster unless you really know what you are doing. Whether you plan to employ a building contractor or tackle some of the works yourself, this comprehensive manual will show you how to stay firmly in control, resulting in a high-quality extension, completed on time and within budget. From foundations and drainage through to snagging and completion, this step-by-step, all-colour guide will cut out the stress and trauma of extending your home.

RAY TRICKER - BUILDING REGULATIONS IN BRIEF

Baffled by the Building Regs? Confused by codes of practice? Mystified by materials and puzzled by planning permission? Then look no further! This handy and affordable guide is a time-saver for both professionals and enthusiasts. The information is sensibly organised by building element rather than by regulation, so that you can quickly lay your hands on whatever you need to know from whichever document. The authors' practical and no-nonsense advice will enable you to comply with the regulations in the simplest and most cost-effective manner.

BRIAN PEGG AND W.D. STAGG - PLASTERING: AN ENCYCLOPAEDIA

It is a great guide for those looking to take their wet plastering skill set a bit further. It provides an introduction to the techniques of modern plastering and a comprehensive treatment of present–day fibrous plasterwork.Also included are full technical details of solid work, and thorough coverage of obsolete practices for the purpose of conservation work. It features working drawings in isometric projection to present a three dimensional picture of specific jobs.

SARAH SUSANKA - NOT SO BIG REMODELLING

"Not So Big Remodeling" introduces the Not So Big philosophy (quality vs. quantity; less can be more; putting pounds into character rather than into square footage) and suggests how it can serve as an approach to remodelling. You can remodel Not So Big, with small changes that have a big impact and you can remodel incrementally, as you have the time and money to do so. Even when you remodel your whole house at once, it's usually best to conceive of the remodel as a series of Not So Big changes. Taken together, these Not So Big changes can transform your house into a place that's right for the way you really live.

HOME DECORATING MANUAL: THE DIY MANUAL FOR PAINTING, WALLPAPERING AND TILING

This comprehensive, fully illustrated book, written by a team of specialists, shows you exactly how to tackle a variety of home decorating tasks. Whether you are painting, wallpapering or tiling, it guides you step-by-step through every stage in the process, from initial preparation to the finishing touches, helping to ensure attractive and long-lasting results.

TOMRIS TANGAZ - THE INTERIOR DESIGN COURSE

Principles, practice and techniques: here is the ultimate guide for the aspiring designer. Discover how design has evolved over the centuries, and learn how to think visually and create your own personal style. Whether you are decorating your own home or thinking of taking up interior design professionally, you will find this book an invaluable and inspirational source of reference.

All books are available at www.amazon.co.uk

Concrete Countertops

2010-06-28T12:40:00.006+01:00

Made entirely of natural materials, this hardened mixture of water, cement, sand, stone and pigment isn’t just for your basement floor anymore. It can make quite a statement up in the kitchen, and homeowners are taking note, as evidenced by its quick rise in popularity. The counters can be pre-cast to fit a mold or cast on site.

Concrete must be sealed properly to resist stains and water damage. However, many fans of concrete argue that there's beauty in the way the an unsealed surface ages, like the aged charm of a well-used butcher block.

ADVANTAGES:

Can be worked into different shapes, such as integral sinks and decorative edge treatments.
Custom details like integral drain boards can be incorporated.
Resists scratches and heat.
Comes in a variety of colors (some manufacturers even allow you to create a custom color) and textures.
Custom cast to your exact specifications.
Much stronger than any other natural surface.

DISADVANTAGES:

Must be sealed properly to resist stain.
Though sealing protects the concrete, waxing is required to protect the sealer. Most manufacturers recommend applying wax to your product every one to three months, which will help to maintain its sheen and repel liquids.
Cutting on it will leave marks.
Quick temperature changes can cause curling or warping to newly installed slabs.

Though your specific manufacturer's instructions reign supreme, concrete countertop manufacturer Sonoma Cast Stone recommends cleaning with a neutral pH soap, and being careful to avoid abrasive cleaners. Promptly rinse all spills from surface. Wax every one to three months and reseal every one to two years, based on your manufacturer's instructions.

WHAT IS A GOOD SEALER FOR CONCRETE COUNTERTOPS?

One of the most popular sealants used to coat the surface of a concrete countertop is epoxy. The epoxy applied to a concrete countertop will usually be harder and more durable than the countertop itself. Other sealants that can be used are wax, acrylics, urethanes and densifiers like sodium silicate.

A good sealant should be non-porous, stain-resistant, scratch-proof, heat-resistant, non-toxic and easy to clean.

Read more about concrete countertops in Fu-Tung Chen's "Concrete Countertops: Design, Forms and Finishes for the New Kitchen and Bathroom"

Book is available at www.amazon.co.uk for £14.86

Sources: www.kitchens.com
www.ehow.co.uk

Bathroom Remodelling Ideas

2010-06-22T13:56:00.013+01:00

Deciding on your bathroom style can be great fun, there are limitless options and with a plain suite it’s possible to completely change the bathroom design with just a splash of paint, new taps and co-ordinated accessories. Or you can go the whole hog and refit the whole bathroom in a new design and style, new suite, the lot. Some bathroom design ideas won’t work in certain rooms through.

The first step in bathroom design is to try and look at the bathroom and isolate the room from the furnishings or decoration to get an idea of the scale of the bathroom and the amount of light it gets. A small bathroom would be able to take the smooth, clean lines of a contemporary style better than the frills and finery of a Victorian or Edwardian style, for example.

A larger, lighter bathroom would be able to take those fussier styles, particularly if the house itself is a period piece. A minimalist bathroom would also work in a large, light room as the scale would emphasise the stark beauty of an uncompromising contemporary design. And if you're lucky enough not to be overlooked, you don’t need to dress the window either, just make sure it has obscured glass.

If you aren't willing or able to replace the bathroom suite then its style will, of necessity, dictate the bathroom design. As previously mentioned, if the suite is a plain style then you can achieve quite a lot simply by changing the taps and toilet handle. This can work very well if, for example, you have a nondescript white suite with older, basic taps. Replacing these with a matching set of contemporary taps can transform the look and feel of a bathroom.

If the bathroom suite is a fussier, curlier style, perhaps with flutes and scallops, then that's not necessarily bad but the contemporary bathroom look is not going to work. It would be better to go with the style of the suite and try for a Victorian, Edwardian or country style.

Tiles are often used in bathrooms but changing them is hard and expensive, so see what you can do to work with them instead. Tile paint is available but it often looks like painted-over tiles rather than the original coloured tiles so take great care over the preparation and application to make them look as good as possible.

You can also change the look of a tiled bathroom by adding to it. For example, if you have plain pale tiles in a half-tiled bathroom, adding a top row of round profiled border tiles, in a contrasting colour such as blue or black, can change the look to an Edwardian feel for a very small financial layout.

The country look can be achieved by using tongue and groove wooden panelling in the walls rather than tiles and curtains rather than blinds. Use floral fabrics if the window is large enough to take them but this can look far too fussy with a small window. Plants work well in a country style or period bathroom design too, and they love the moist atmosphere.

Finally, if you have the money, and the bathroom is on a scale that can take it, there are some stunning contemporary basin and bath designs. Materials such as slate, glass, stone, wood, and many others have been fashioned into the most amazing and sometimes startling designs.

Source: www.kitchenbathroomideas.co.uk

Squeaky Floorboards? Not any more!

2010-06-18T16:18:00.005+01:00

Nothing’s more annoying than the persistent squeak of a badly fitting floorboard. Find out how to cure the problem in just half an hour.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS:

Drill, screwdriver and drill bit; 60mm screws; talc; wide-bladed cold chisel; club hammer

Often, boards may swell and distort with extremes of heat or moisture. If the sides of adjacent boards touch and foot traffic causes the edges to rub together, the result can be a squeak. Remove any floor coverings and test the boards with your foot to pinpoint the problem. Then brush chalk or talcum powder liberally between the boards to reduce the friction.

If the noise persists, the boards may be rubbing against the joists. Tighten the loose board/s by fixing to the joist with 60mm screws. At the ends of boards, drill pilot holes to stop the screws splitting the wood.

If a board end isn't supported by a joist, take up the board by prising it up with a cold chisel and club hammer. Screw a 25 x 50mm batten to the side of the joist to support the board end. Lay the board back on top of the batten and fix with screws.

Squeaking stair treads may be cured by tapping a wooden wedge directly under the stair tread, tightening the tread against the stringer (side of the staircase) - as long as you can get to the underneath of the staircase.

By George Clarke, Property and design expert at www.channel4.com

Tradespeople costs

2010-05-28T12:42:00.004+01:00

Hiring a tradesmen?Know the cost! We picked the typical costs for common building, plumbing, plastering, glazing, electrical and roofing jobs and their average duration, as well as some useful hints and tips.

ELECTRICIANS

INSTALLING A LIGHT SWITCH AND LIGHT FITTING:

Time: Half to 1 day
Price: £220
It takes longer if the circuit has to be rewired back to the consumer unit (also known as a fuse box) or if access to the circuits is difficult.

REWIRNG A 3 -BEDROOMED HOUSE:

Time: 1 week
Price: around £4.000
Rewiring takes longer if access to cables is difficult. You should use a Part P-certified electrician.

CARPENTERS

FITTING AN INTERNAL OR EXTERNAL DOOR:

Time: 2-3 hours
Price: £265 - £855
Fitting a door can take longer if the frame is out of shape as the door has to be trimmed to fit it. External doors may take longer if they need more locks.

BUILDING AND FITTING CUPBOARDS:

Time: 2 days
Price: £900 upwards
With fitted cupboards, as much as possible should be made in a workshop by a joiner. Cupboards should then be assembled on site.

PLASTERERS

PLASTERING A 4M X 4M ROOM BEFORE DECORATION

Time: Half a day to 1 day
Price: £500
If you have a two-coat system with a base coat and a top-finishing plaster, this requires the bottom coat to set first. At least one day is allowed for this between the coats.

REMOVING PLASTER AND RE-PLASTERING A 4M X 4M ROOM, REPLACING AND PAINTING NEW SKIRTING:

Time: 2-3 days
Price: £1,430 (with skirting); £970 (without skirting)
Allow extra time if you're having any redecoration done. This will take a while and you'll need a gap of several days to allow the plaster to dry out.

PLUMBERS

INSTALLING A BOILER:

Time: 1 day
Price: £1,560 to £4,320
If it’s sited in a tricky place and you need extended flues, it will take longer. The cheaper price given above is for a wall-mounted condensing boiler in a small terraced house.

SAFETY CHECK OF GAS FITTINGS:

Time: 1 hour
Price: £50 to £70+ (price from Gas-Elec Safety Systems, a national inspection company)
Engineers should check flues and appliances and carry out spillage tests. Use a trader registered with the Gas Safe Register (Corgi before April 1st 2009) for jobs involving gas.

PAINTERS

PAINTING A 4M X 4M ROOM WITH TWO COATS OF PAINT:

Time: One painter, 1 day
Price: £375
This time includes painting the ceiling and painting gloss on skirting and architraves around doors. Decorators will need to leave time for the paint to dry between each coat.

PAINT THE OUTSIDE OF 3-BEDROOMED HOUSE:

Time: Two painters, one week
Price: £2,580 to £3,580
To gloss paint fascias and soffits (the flat board under the eaves and fascia) properly, decorators should remove guttering and then replace it.

KITCHEN & BATHROOM FITTERS

FITTING A NEW 4M X 3M KITCHEN:

Time: 4 to 5 days
Price: £8,840 upwards
You’ll need to hire specialists if the fit involves rewiring or replumbing, so the job will take longer. Having floors or splash backs tiled will also add extra time.

FITTING A NEW BATHROOM:

Time: 3 to 5 days
Price: £1,900 to £2,050
A built-in shower will take extra time – often three days on top of the time given above. Any electrical work should be undertaken by a Part P-certified electrician.

GLAZIERS

FITTING A TYPICAL CASEMENT WINDOW OF 1.2M X 1.2M:

Time: 2 to 3 hours
Price: £630
Repairing sash windows takes longer – about two days. This allows time to replace sash cords and deal with any rotten or damaged timber.

INSTALLING NEW DOUBLE GLAZING FOR SEVEN WINDOWS IN TWO STOREY HOUSE:

Time: 3 to 4 days
Price: £4,420 to £7,740

ROOFERS

RE-COVERING A STANDARD GABLE-ENDED ROOF WITH PLAIN TILES:

Time: 3 days
Price: £3,460 upwards
The roofer should strip the old tiles and battens and fit new underlay and battens to the rafters. Hip tiles and lead work take longer.

REPAIRING A ROOF WITH LOCALISED REPLACEMENT OF CRACKED OR SLIPPED TILES:

Time: Two workers, 1 day
Price: £515
Bigger roofing jobs – having 10 to 20% of your tiles replaced – require scaffolding access.

Source: www.which.co.uk

Coverage of materials graph

2010-05-24T12:56:00.013+01:00

If you are laying a patio or drive, placing topsoil for a lawn or covering your garden with stone, it is very useful to know how much you will need. Use our easy to read graph below to get the quantities right.

Measure the area of your garden and go up the left hand side of the graph to that area (for example 20 square metres at the top). Read horizontally along that line to the thickness of material you need (example 100mm). Where that line meets the diagonal line of your chosen depth go straight down and read the amount you need in cubic metres. (example = 2.00 cubic metres) This can be converted into weight using the table below.

Dry sand fine	1.28 tonnes per cubic metre
Dry sand coarse	1.6 tonnes per cubic metre
Topsoil(some moisture)	1.44 tonnes per cubic metre
Ballast	1.76 tonnes per cubic metre
gravel	1.92 tonnes per cubic metre
shingle	1.62 tonnes per cubic metre
stiff clay	1.6 tonnes per cubic metre
loam	1.28 tonnes per cubic metre
peat (wet)	0.96 tonnes per cubic metre
peat (dry)	0.96 tonnes per cubic metre
lump chalk	1.2 tonnes per cubic metre
sandstone	2.32 tonnes per cubic metre
Lias	2.48 tonnes per cubic metre
granite	2.72 tonnes per cubic metre
slate	2.8 tonnes per cubic metre
flint	2.3 tonnes per cubic metre
yorkstone	2.5 tonnes per cubic metre
Brick rubble	1.8--2.2 tonnes per cubic metre

Essential tools for every workshop

2010-05-19T13:07:00.012+01:00

The tools in your workshop will depend on your areas of specialty, interests and level of experience. Following is a list of some the more essential hand-tools that should be found in most any basic workshop.

MEASURING TAPES: come in a variety of lengths such as 12, 18, 25 or 33 feet. Remember that the longer the tape, the heavier it will be. A 33-foot tape is a good choice for a serious builder or craftsman. Some tape measures are marked in eighths of an inch, which simplifies measurement and calculation of exact measurements.
SPEED SQUARE: used for measuring and marking angles in construction. It is constructed with a lipped straight edge making it easy to mark 45-degree and 90-degree angles, and it has designations for some of the more commonly used measurements and angles. A speed square is an absolute necessity for serious building and construction.
LEVELS: come in a variety of sizes, lengths and styles -- including high-tech levels that use a laser beam. The basic level uses a straight edge and liquid-filled containers that contain a bubble. The bubble is lined up between markings on the liquid-filled tubes to determine when a surface or line is level.
HAMMERS: come in a variety of styles for varying uses, and are available in different weights depending on how they'll be used. Commonly used hammers include tack hammers and standard nailing hammers. Some specialized nailing hammers incorporate a slot that holds a nail so that the nail can be set one-handed with a single blow. Dead-blow hammers are used in woodworking, and don't bounce when struck against a material. Rubber mallets are also useful, particularly for woodworking to make fit adjustments without marring the surface of the wood.
DRILLS: Cordless drills are one of the most versatile tools in the workshop. Aside from being used for drilling into a variety of materials, they can be fitted with a screwdriver attachment to make driving screws into wood a snap. Since they are cordless, they won't hinder your mobility.
Corded drills have the disadvantage of the cord that limits your movement, but they are available in strengths and torque greater than their cordless counterparts.
SCREWDRIVERS:

Every workshop -- or toolbox for that matter -- needs to have both Phillips head and flat-head (slotted) screwdrivers. Each of these types comes in a variety of sizes. There are other types of screwdrivers, as well -- such as hex and torx head -- for more specialized uses. Phillips and flat-head are the most common. A nut driver works just like a screwdriver, but has a socket at the end for tightening and removing nuts as with a socket wrench. A six-in-one tool is a handy household tool that's essentially a screwdriver with six interchangeable attachments -- small and large Phillips head, small and large flat-head and two sizes of nut-drivers.

WRENCHES:

An adjustable wrench is useful around the house as well as for working in the shop or on automobiles. The open end of the wrench adjusts by rotating a threaded adjuster, and the wrenches themselves are available in a wide variety of overall sizes. Open-end wrenches are available in incremental sizes (metric and standard), and are open at both ends. are available in the same size increments, and are closed at both ends.Box wrenches. Combination wrenches are open at one end and closed at the other.

CUTTING TOOLS: for cutting sheet metal and other materials. These include tin snips, aviation snips, utility knife and scissors.

SAWS: hand-saws commonly used in the workshop include large and small cross-cut saw, pull saw, compass saw, coping saw and keyhole saw.

Some other commonly used tools include pliers, chisels, files, rasps, sanding blocks and wood plane.

Source: www.diynetwork.com